I’m getting a couple of wood
two-by-fours ready because my 4-foot
magnifying lens needs a sturdy frame i
hack this out of an old TV in a previous
video but it’s too flimsy to use on its
own we need something that’s super cheap
to make but sturdy and easy to use and
I’ve got an idea that just might work
[Music]
measuring the size of the lens seems
like a good place to start so let’s do
that and then mark the wood for custom
cutting it’s best to use as little wood
as possible so I’m going to use this
table saw to rip these studs into this
shouldn’t compromise the integrity of
the frame at all and it will cut the
weight in half these two by fours are
now two by twos and will need to cut a
group right down the middle once I’ve
got the centre lined up I’ll lower the
blade down to about three-quarters of an
inch
and get the saw spinning as the beam
glides over the blade I’m happy to see
that it cut the clean 3/16 inch groove
this is the groove that our lens will
fit into and sliding the pieces together
into place proves that the cuts were
good the edges match up and the frame
looks functional but before we secure it
we’ll need to drill some holes right in
the center to accommodate this three
inch bolt I’ve added a rubber washer to
the bolt and pushed it through the hole
then when this piece goes back in place
we can still access the threads whoops I
almost forgot I wanted to add a more
finished look to this frame so I’ll add
a half inch a per bit to my router and
trim the outer edges
I built this router right into my
workbench so I have a lot of room for
bigger projects look for how to build
this router table in a different project
these simple cuts are quickly giving the
frame a more professional look okay
those are done so now I can retract my
router bit and lay these support blocks
down the lens goes over top and these
blocks are helping prevent the lens from
warping when we’ve got one of the
corners lined up we can drill a pilot
hole and add a three-inch wood screw
that’s holding well so let’s repeat that
on the other three corners drilling
these holes first helps prevent the wood
from splitting when the screws go in the
scorcher lens is framed and we can put
that off to the side and get to work on
making a collapsible a-frame this time
we’ll need to cut to 5 foot lengths of
2×4 and rip them into two by twos the
same as the others
I want to make a hinged frame but before
we do let’s router these edges as well
and save some of the sawdust for a
future charcoal making project all right
my table is clean again and I’m going to
try an idea for a modified hinge with
these eye screws these screws were six
for a buck and will only need four holes
are drilled in the center of the
chamfered edge and then these screws are
tightened to where they line up nicely
with each other they stay together
closed and fully open so I’m hopeful
this is going to work it’s time to join
the a frame with the scorcher lens a
washer and nut go on the bolt and now
I’m cutting this barbed sprinkler line
coupling to act as a spacer the barbed
is on with a washer on either end and
the eye screws are added next followed
by a washer barbed washer and secure it
in place with a wing nut everything is
duplicated on the other side and these
frame legs pivot just the way I was
hoping next we’ll need to measure the
distance between the legs and cut four
more pieces of wood to act as support
braces when those are roughed in place
let’s measure about 10 inches from the
scorcher frame and make some marks when
we’ve drilled the holes and added the
screws the frame is pretty much done the
scorcher lens rotates a full 360 degrees
and seems relatively sturdy one more
thing I want to try is adding an
adjustable tensioner so I’m cutting a
scrap piece of 8-inch cardboard into a
strip about two inches wide and 18
inches long then I’ll adjust the saw to
cut a groove in the center stopping
about one and a half inches from the
ends a hole is drilled in the frame ten
inches from the top and the band is
connected to the frame with a three inch
bolt and some wide metal washers a wing
nut will hold that together loosely then
this other end of the strap connects to
the side of the pivoting frame about
five inches from the fulcrum loop steps
a little too tight so I’ll back it off a
touch and give it a test
I can still rotate the lens nearly 360
degrees but now I have the benefit of
being able to position and
securely at any angle I want the frame
looks great and totally exceeds my
expectations for functionality and
practical use the best part is we made
the whole thing custom for about eight
dollars that’s it for now if you like
this project perhaps you’ll like some of
my others check them out at the king of
random comm
[Music]
two-by-fours ready because my 4-foot
magnifying lens needs a sturdy frame i
hack this out of an old TV in a previous
video but it’s too flimsy to use on its
own we need something that’s super cheap
to make but sturdy and easy to use and
I’ve got an idea that just might work
[Music]
measuring the size of the lens seems
like a good place to start so let’s do
that and then mark the wood for custom
cutting it’s best to use as little wood
as possible so I’m going to use this
table saw to rip these studs into this
shouldn’t compromise the integrity of
the frame at all and it will cut the
weight in half these two by fours are
now two by twos and will need to cut a
group right down the middle once I’ve
got the centre lined up I’ll lower the
blade down to about three-quarters of an
inch
and get the saw spinning as the beam
glides over the blade I’m happy to see
that it cut the clean 3/16 inch groove
this is the groove that our lens will
fit into and sliding the pieces together
into place proves that the cuts were
good the edges match up and the frame
looks functional but before we secure it
we’ll need to drill some holes right in
the center to accommodate this three
inch bolt I’ve added a rubber washer to
the bolt and pushed it through the hole
then when this piece goes back in place
we can still access the threads whoops I
almost forgot I wanted to add a more
finished look to this frame so I’ll add
a half inch a per bit to my router and
trim the outer edges
I built this router right into my
workbench so I have a lot of room for
bigger projects look for how to build
this router table in a different project
these simple cuts are quickly giving the
frame a more professional look okay
those are done so now I can retract my
router bit and lay these support blocks
down the lens goes over top and these
blocks are helping prevent the lens from
warping when we’ve got one of the
corners lined up we can drill a pilot
hole and add a three-inch wood screw
that’s holding well so let’s repeat that
on the other three corners drilling
these holes first helps prevent the wood
from splitting when the screws go in the
scorcher lens is framed and we can put
that off to the side and get to work on
making a collapsible a-frame this time
we’ll need to cut to 5 foot lengths of
2×4 and rip them into two by twos the
same as the others
I want to make a hinged frame but before
we do let’s router these edges as well
and save some of the sawdust for a
future charcoal making project all right
my table is clean again and I’m going to
try an idea for a modified hinge with
these eye screws these screws were six
for a buck and will only need four holes
are drilled in the center of the
chamfered edge and then these screws are
tightened to where they line up nicely
with each other they stay together
closed and fully open so I’m hopeful
this is going to work it’s time to join
the a frame with the scorcher lens a
washer and nut go on the bolt and now
I’m cutting this barbed sprinkler line
coupling to act as a spacer the barbed
is on with a washer on either end and
the eye screws are added next followed
by a washer barbed washer and secure it
in place with a wing nut everything is
duplicated on the other side and these
frame legs pivot just the way I was
hoping next we’ll need to measure the
distance between the legs and cut four
more pieces of wood to act as support
braces when those are roughed in place
let’s measure about 10 inches from the
scorcher frame and make some marks when
we’ve drilled the holes and added the
screws the frame is pretty much done the
scorcher lens rotates a full 360 degrees
and seems relatively sturdy one more
thing I want to try is adding an
adjustable tensioner so I’m cutting a
scrap piece of 8-inch cardboard into a
strip about two inches wide and 18
inches long then I’ll adjust the saw to
cut a groove in the center stopping
about one and a half inches from the
ends a hole is drilled in the frame ten
inches from the top and the band is
connected to the frame with a three inch
bolt and some wide metal washers a wing
nut will hold that together loosely then
this other end of the strap connects to
the side of the pivoting frame about
five inches from the fulcrum loop steps
a little too tight so I’ll back it off a
touch and give it a test
I can still rotate the lens nearly 360
degrees but now I have the benefit of
being able to position and
securely at any angle I want the frame
looks great and totally exceeds my
expectations for functionality and
practical use the best part is we made
the whole thing custom for about eight
dollars that’s it for now if you like
this project perhaps you’ll like some of
my others check them out at the king of
random comm
[Music]
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