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Wine & the Senses | Karl Wente | TEDxEmeraldGlenPark


I’m gonna talk about wine and wine is
part of humanity it’s been with us for a
very long time I’m gonna talk about
senses and sense data and how sense that
is part of what makes us distinctly and
uniquely human so my journey with wine
started grad school I really think about
it too much growing up would rather go
horseback riding with my dad and get out
on the ranch then get into wine and talk
about a drink Keystone Light or Coors
Light
but at grad school I started thinking
about wine what is wine why is it so
pervasive through our culture why is it
so pervasive through humanity why does
it show up in religion so much why is it
just part of us like that and so my
journey started when my dad who’s in the
audience he hired me out of grad school
at UC Davis and my job was to make wine
as good as any from our region’s from
our vineyards it’s my family has
vineyards in Livermore Valley beautiful
appellation we are in the lived more
valley appellation right now and we have
vineyards in Arroyo Seco in Monterey
County so I would drive down to Arroyo
Seco once a week
lots of windshield time alone get up at
4:30 driving by 4:45 you miss the
traffic through Silicon Valley and then
you’re down there go through Soledad Sun
comes up Santa Lucia Highlands are on
your right and it’s just lots of time to
think about wine what is wine wine is
fundamentally fermented sugar now does
it have to be grapes no you know barley
wine you can have a honey wine Mead you
can have rice wine all these different
things so it’s just fermenting and
arguably wine and fermenting sugars been
around for as long as you know man’s
been upright and now the the history of
wine goes back deep as early as we have
writing we have symbols of wine so just
again part of culture but then as I’m
driving down thinking about wine and to
make high-quality wine what’s quality
that question made me a little bit crazy
for a period
of life because does quality reside in
the human that takes that sip of wine or
does quality reside in the wine itself
does it matter no that’ll be the point
of the talk as it doesn’t fundamentally
matter as long as you’re having pleasure
and that person is enjoying that moment
with that glass of wine but
fundamentally when I talk about wine
today it’s good to be able to out wine
that comes from fittest vanilla so varis
vinifera is the genus and species of the
noble grape vines of which Chardonnay
Cabernet Petit Verdot petite Syrah
Malbec Tempranillo tree ganache canal
tarika Francesca Suzanne Marcia Andrew
San Vionnet Arras and so Grenache
Graziano orange Muscat Muscat cannelli
Nebbiolo Sanjiv AC
Barbera Zinfandel Pinot Grigio Pinot
Blanc Chardonnay Pinot Noir those are
all vidis vinifera and viscera nefra is
phenomenally awesome
why because it accumulates sugar to
about 24% that’s way higher than any
other fruit try and make strawberry wine
there’s not enough sugar there so when
you ferment it the alcohol is not at a
point where it’s stable so that is
vanilla accumulates more sugar than any
other fruit vidis vinifera has a pH that
gives it in that 3 3 2 3 6 range blah
blah blah what does that mean it means
it’s stable it has nice acidity and so
it has stability to it also the primary
acid in vidis vinifera is tartaric acid
which is not bioavailable most other
acids are consumed by bacteria so these
things make wine inherently stable when
I say wine for the rest of this talk I’m
talking venison if for a wine so it’s
inherently stable no human pathogens can
survive in wine so it’s inherently good
for you right and it’s just and then
vidis vinifera in all of these different
types whether it’s the Chardonnay or the
Cabernet it has more molecules than any
other fruit that our sense or Lear
acepted by us so this incredible
diversity and array that will come
threw in that fruit so as I’m driving
down windshield time driving to a Royal
Seco thinking about wine thinking about
quality what is quality dad’s directive
my family’s directive was make high
quality wine make wine as high of
quality as anybody in the regions and I
like how he said it like that don’t make
the best because that’s a unicorn just
make high quality wine yes sir so as I
go down and thinking about it I think
about how wine derives its flavors first
is from the vineyards the fruit we’ve
talked about that now the flavours that
you can get out of grapes you can have
characteristics of mango papaya guava
pineapple apple pear citrus plum cherry
all of these are descriptors that people
have used about wine when you sense that
next as wine gets its flavor from the
yeast that fruit needs to be fermented
so again that 24 percent sugar in that
wine gets fermented the yeast gobble up
all this sugar and they convert it into
alcohol ethanol and co2 co2 goes away
unless you capture it like beer or like
sparkling wine you can put a top on it
and keep it in there to drive that
carbonation so you don’t actually have
to shoot it across the room and try and
catch it over there which something I’d
actually like to do and then so the
yeast so the peak of the fermentation
there’s three-quarters of a billion
yeast cells for every milliliter of
fluid three-quarters of a billion unique
organisms they’re gobbling up sugar
converting it to alcohol and then at the
end of the fermentation it’s now about
13% alcohol and those yeast just made
enough alcohol they can no longer
survive so sort of why Vitis vinifera is
perfect right right at the edge of where
they can survive now they settle down to
the bottom so as we talk about flavors
all the diversity of flavors that come
from the grapes that come from the
vineyards that come from your row
direction that come from this makeup of
your soil the organic matter the zinc
the molybdenum the potassium the boron
all the different things the organic
matter in your soil the clone how that
grapevines growing all those different
flavors in the fruit
then you have the yeast that are
ultimately gonna impact some flavor
think about the diversity of flavors of
bread just from the yeast itself now
that little microcosm of thought you can
think about the diversity of flavors
that can come in based on the
fermentation and with Chardonnay at the
end of the fermentation that yeast will
settle down to the bottom and then
you’ll have that yeast cells start to
open up and you’ll get some of this
creamy yeasty nutty dough like
characteristics coming through so all
this diversity from the fruit all this
diversity from the yeast and then
barrels can come into play as well so
with a barrel you cut down the tree your
quarter it you make staves you
crosshatch it let it season for either
third 24 months 36 months bring it into
a Cooper bend it over an open fire
sand it down first clean it up just been
sitting out there just season and in the
rain for a while bend it over and Oh
choir and then toast it basically bake
the inside of that wood so what’s wood
made up of as a gross generalization
will say lignin which is what’s the
strong why we can build with it a big
organic polymer cellulose cell wall
material sugar and water what happens
when you toast
lignin you get molecules that are very
close to or exactly human clove
coriander nutmeg vanilla almond fake
vanilla fake almond all those different
ground spices and that can come through
there so that’s just by toasting that
then you toast cellulose and you get
toast characteristics you think about a
crostini at 200 degrees in the oven or a
crostini at 500 degree isn’t that
difference of those toast levels so when
the wine goes into that barrel the wine
that has all of these flavors from the
grape itself more than any other fruit
out there and it’s inherently stable and
it’s inherently good for you then that
goes into the barrel and those get in
there and then last there’s sugar right
this is this tree this oak tree is
taking water and nutrients from the
roots on up and in the miraculous
photosynthesis it is making sugar in
those leaves and sending it down so all
of those little those little dots you
see in the cross out to the wood or
pipes and that pipe has water and sugar
what happens when you
sugar I mean excuse me what happens when
you toast sugar they gave you the answer
it caramelizes right and that
carmelization you think about the
diversity of flavours you get from a
carmelization at the temperature and how
it goes so then when you toast water
bye-bye so that’s not part of the
overall now yeah this fruit with more
diversity of flavors you have yeast and
all of their different living metabolism
that happens as it’s fermenting the wine
then you have all this diversity of
flavor from the barrel also the origin
of where that tree was grown was that
tree grown on the north-facing slope a
south-facing slope was that tree going
in the South of France the north of
France was it in Pennsylvania was it in
Arkansas was it in Missouri all of these
things are gonna change the makeup of
that barrel thus those molecules are
getting in to the wine itself as it ages
there lastly malolactic fermentation is
when malic acid converted into lactic
acid and you get that buttery
characteristic we all had a Chardonnay
where you said wow there’s a little
butter in there it’s because the amount
of fermentation so the point of all of
that is wine has more diverse individual
unique molecules than anything else we
consume so with that now this is all me
just driving down to Royal Seco
regularly thinking about wine and what
is quality and at the same time I
started I read zen and the Odum art of
motorcycle maintenance by Robert Pearson
which is about the metaphysics of
quality so now I like to think and
Robert Pearson talked about going to the
high country of the mind to think to
meditate to conceptualize to ponder all
of those different things and then so
I’d listen to it as a book on tape can I
think about it and I wanted to
understand it and the first time I did
and then I’d go and I’d read some of the
references that he had and I’d get into
antiquity a little bit and Homer and
Virgil
and some of the lessons that come out of
antiquity really what bubbles up wisdom
courage and moderation among other
things but wisdom courage moderation and
then I’d read zen and the art of
motorcycle maintenance trying to
understand a little bit
and then I’d go into the Socrates Plato
Aristotle and could quality be what
Plato calls the good maybe don’t know if
I totally understand that and then I’d
get into dialectic and rhetoric and how
it all goes and there’s about
communication is it in the wine as it is
it in the head of the person where does
it lie and then you know and ultimately
Robert Pearson got a pretty big bee in
his bonnet about Socrates Plato
Aristotle so I thought okay he’s not
trying to point in that direction and
ultimately piercing had these two
chakwas was what he called him and they
were effectively TED Talks right so I
love the circle that comes back and he
would try and just educate in what was
in his head and he first started
questioning right there’s dualities that
present persist right there is classic
verse romantic hip verse square logical
verse emotional and very importantly to
this and my concept of wine is
subjective objective the subjective is
you is all of you and the object is the
wine is quality of that glass of wine in
the wine itself or in the eye of the
beholder beauties in the IR beholder
it’s an easy way to go down that path
and take that one but no there’s more
molecules in that wine than any other
and it’s so good and so yummy and so
helpful it must be in the wine which is
it which is it so you keep on
fast-forwarding and then I would take a
break from zen and the art of motorcycle
maintenance and read some more the baja
itza the DAO de Jing by Lao Tzu and then
I’d come back and I’d go through zen and
the art of motorcycle maintenance again
and ultimately the point that he came
with is that we are of sense-data how
great because i’m in wine and people
that are taking a sip of wine it’s all
about the sense data so the classic five
senses sight light waves coming in and
hit hits are I create sense data sense
data creates a thought sound the waves
of the air coming in hit the eardrum
they touch the eardrum it creates sense
data
signal to the brain taste something in
your mouth creates sense data goes into
your brain creates a thought we already
data here we didn’t math now smell one
of the best ones of them all especially
it relates to wine these molecules go
into your nose and basically the
vibration of that molecule will then
create sense data and then signal goes
to your brain
lastly touch touch Tramp interaction
sense data signal to the brain five
senses that’s what we’ve been taught lo
and behold the new theories out there
there is also pain sensors pressure
thirst hunger time temperature itch
I think itch is like touch but they say
it’s not itchy and muscle tension their
sensors for that there’s also magnetic
sensors right some people have great
sense of direction do we really all have
magnetic sensors in us absolutely now
lobster they migrate just purely on the
magnetics of the earth so it’s there
there’s also a quick equilibrium sensors
that are big part of it there’s also
chemical sensors there’s also sensors
that tell us where we are in space so
you know where your hands are in
relation to your body so all of these
senses there are receptors they create
sense data and they send a signal to the
head to the brain that becomes a thought
so now let’s get back to wine right
because that’s the fun part of it and
wine really allows the exploration of
the primary five like no other right you
look at the color if it’s a white wine a
beautiful gold or if it’s a red wine
that beautiful red and then you take you
smell and you go retro nasally and you
get all these things cherry plum apple
pear citrus toasty oak vanilla yeasty
creamy nutty don’t like all of these
senses that are coming through and then
take a sip of it and you get the taste
plus the retro nasal coming back and
then why do we Cheers
why do we go clink
so you complete the five senses right
the last also being you put the wine in
your mouth and how does it feel that
tactile sensation that goes in there so
is the wine itself is the quality on the
liner’s the quality and the human and
ultimately Robert Pearson said it’s
neither and let’s check this because
let’s say the wine hits your senses
that’s at moment one and then you create
sense data moment two and then that
sense data goes to your head that
creates a thought moment three those
times are non zero right we think it’s
instantaneous but it’s not those times
are nonzero so we talk about being in
the moment you’re trying to push it back
to a place where you have this pre
intellectual reality to it so you’re
you’re in that moment and you’re not
thinking about it and wine really
provides the opportunity to have that
moment and so every sip of wine that I
take is this continuum of close your
eyes Zen mind beginner’s mind sip it and
try and keep your mind totally blank
don’t let the thoughts come in and then
after you get done with that and then
you allow yourself to think about it
later right in that time from one to the
next and that really according to robert
piercing that’s he postulated and i
fundamentally agree was the foundation
of the trinity that pervades right the
first logos the second logos to 3rd
logos the body the mind and the soul the
Father the Son the Holy Spirit like all
of these guru vishnu guru brahma guru
shiva the trinity pervades all culture
and that quality is the interaction of
the molecule with you then you have
sense data that’s created and then you
have thoughts that are created and so as
you can go back away try and take the
thought try and take the thought out of
it and just be in that moment
you’re actually pulling yourself closer
to a point of what’s fundamentally
divinity right and so you talk about
being in that moment and zhenia out and
be in there and wine really affords the
opportunity to do that with every single
sip thank you [Applause]
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