I had a lot of attempts on k2 six summit
attempts I cannot explain why I decided
to continue climbing but there was the
big big willpower to climb up to the top
thank you very much thank you very much
with k2 I have a very very special
relationship since many years because I
had a lot of a lots of attempts on k2
six summit attempts I had from the south
side we have chosen always the very
direct line the so called
chasin route up to the shoulder in 2007
on one expedition we had two summit
attempts but we had to return because of
to turn back because of bad weather and
in 2009 we tried again twice without
success but we came down say if it was
the most important and in 2010 I had
again two summit attempt without success
you see here on the right side is the
so-called normal route a brute sea route
who leads up to the shoulder and on the
shoulder a little bit lower than 8,000
meter the two routes comes together and
the last 600 meters are the same way up
to the highest point my husband arrived
he climbed k2 already in 1994 he had
only one summit attempt and immediate
and he could reach the summit
immediately he was very lucky with the
weather and of course very strong yes in
2010 on our second attempt erm our good
friend fell down from the bottleneck
more than 1000 meter and immediately
after we stopped this expedition I
didn’t know if I would ever come back to
this mountain I had just a feeling that
I need a big distance now and only think
thing who helped me was that I could
talk with ryf we had very long talk
I felt that the feeling the body feeling
for k2 comes back I cannot explain why
but there was the big wish to go back to
k2 and I told Ralph can you understand
that I would like to try again climbing
k2 and he could understand first he told
me but please accept that I will not
join you because I climbed already and
now it’s enough for me and then I also
felt that if I would like to go back
then I would learn about another route
and so I decided to go to the north side
of k2 to try the North pillar and when I
told this Ralph then immediately he told
me calendar if you try to North Billa I
will come with you and everybody can
imagine how happy I was here I show you
an animation from the German Earth’s
observation center you fly more
less-lethal around
k2 and it was so helpful for us during
our preparation we could see the whole
North below we could imagine where it
would be possible to establish a tent
and the most important was that we could
see how long will be the summit reach
its very mentally it’s very important to
be prepared that up there and one day
our meteorologists told us maybe that
21st of August could be a perfect day
for you but the days before are not very
stable so we decided to start into bad
weather and we went up to camp one where
we had to shovel out the
hence it was a lot of snow over there
and it was so much snow that we had to
stay one day and luckily the next day we
had some hours of sunshine so all the
big avalanches came down and this was
the most important for us we were
convinced that the next morning we will
get quite stable weather that we can
continue climbing up to came to but
during the night it was around midnight
the snowfall started again and at 5 o
clock when we left them our tent we had
already quite a lot of snow and then
came the very difficult moment where my
husband Ralph he was just behind me told
me calendar now I stopped climbing it’s
too risky for me and I have no more a
good gut feeling I have to return and
until this moment I was so convinced so
sure that I will try to gather with ryf
also with the others to reach the top of
k2 and in that moment everything turned
around but we had this situation already
some years ago we were discussing about
situations like this and we decided that
if each of us is healthy and strong
enough he can decide by himself and so
Raph did not ask me in the first moment
to turn back but I also did not ask him
please join me so it was very important
that we accepted each other’s decision
the weather did not improve
we had still snowfall the next day but
now the route became so steep that it
was no more LM stranger and finally in
the late afternoon we reached the place
where we shoveled out a small platform
and this was now the first time after
two days that I could speak again with
my husband with Ralph he was very much
worried about us
you see we climbed up to 7000 300 meters
and it was quite cold but then on 7300
in the evening finally the wind
decreased and we had a good night we
could sleep over there we could recover
a little bit and I spoke again with
Ralph by walkie-talkie and he told us
Kalina the next day will be good I’m
very sure about this and I was just
happy I was so motivated and I saw also
that in the upper part that strong very
strong wind has blown away all the snow
and so we found perfect conditions we
moved up to 8,000 meter very quick and
it was just fantastic not one cloud on
the on the sky and we could see all the
cool new mountains and also in this
moment I felt that I get a lot of energy
back from this great nature the next
morning we started right early from our
last camp at 8000 meter we had a
fantastic day the weather was just
perfect only few days you can find
weather like this especially on k2 but
then we are confronted with a lot of
so-called spindrift it’s a very soft
loose snow who comes down by from from
the summit part
and sometimes it’s quite difficult to to
keep the balance and then we tried to
cross the Japanese kahlúa and when we
tried to cross we found snow up to the
waist and it was just too dangerous to
traverse a at that point I called again
Ralf by walkie-talkie I explained him
our big problem it seemed that we had
have to turn back but rifle had seen by
the with the binocular that there is a
big crevasse who leads from the very
right side far to the left side and he
told us we have to climb just below this
Grievous it would be possible and you
can see it was possible we found less
snow and there was no more avalanche
danger but nevertheless we moved them
far too slow we saw that at in during
this day it would not be possible to
reach the top to reach the highest point
and on 8000 meter there’s only one
threat of oxygen pressure left and we
all were not acclimatized we were not
adapted on the low oxygen pressure so we
decided to find a quite safe P work
place over there first we had to cross
this ice wall and we climbed up to
around eight thousand three hundred
metres at once right in the morning we
climbed up some meters maybe around 4050
meter I don’t know anymore exactly but
it was so cold that we couldn’t feel our
fingers and feet and so we had to turn
back to our small Buick tent we went
inside again and we decided to wait on
in the morning time then we will have
maybe warmer temperature we left our be
workplace at 8 o clock in the morning we
knew that it is really late but we were
prepared for 10:00 just some meters
apart we found again snow until our
waist and we try to break trail in three
different directions but it was not
possible to move ahead and maybe you can
imagine for 30 altitude meters we needed
around three hours maybe it’s difficult
to understand what we are doing up there
but there was the big picture willpower
to climb up to the top and the weather
was still perfect so we continued
climbing and this was a part where we
were quite fast but only few meters we
had conditions like this and then we
found the very heavy snow and here we
are already a puffed a very difficult
part and these are the last meters now
up to the snow Ridge and on the snow
ridge we found again perfect conditions
and in this moment a very very strong
feeling came up and gave us a lot of
power then it was so emotional for me to
do the last steps up to the top of k2 it
was a long life dream came true with
this moment it was just so emotional I
felt that it was like a big big present
from the whole universe we reached the
top but it was a big success from the
whole team all these together make made
it that we had a great great success and
once again thank you very much to all of
you thank you very much
you
attempts I cannot explain why I decided
to continue climbing but there was the
big big willpower to climb up to the top
thank you very much thank you very much
with k2 I have a very very special
relationship since many years because I
had a lot of a lots of attempts on k2
six summit attempts I had from the south
side we have chosen always the very
direct line the so called
chasin route up to the shoulder in 2007
on one expedition we had two summit
attempts but we had to return because of
to turn back because of bad weather and
in 2009 we tried again twice without
success but we came down say if it was
the most important and in 2010 I had
again two summit attempt without success
you see here on the right side is the
so-called normal route a brute sea route
who leads up to the shoulder and on the
shoulder a little bit lower than 8,000
meter the two routes comes together and
the last 600 meters are the same way up
to the highest point my husband arrived
he climbed k2 already in 1994 he had
only one summit attempt and immediate
and he could reach the summit
immediately he was very lucky with the
weather and of course very strong yes in
2010 on our second attempt erm our good
friend fell down from the bottleneck
more than 1000 meter and immediately
after we stopped this expedition I
didn’t know if I would ever come back to
this mountain I had just a feeling that
I need a big distance now and only think
thing who helped me was that I could
talk with ryf we had very long talk
I felt that the feeling the body feeling
for k2 comes back I cannot explain why
but there was the big wish to go back to
k2 and I told Ralph can you understand
that I would like to try again climbing
k2 and he could understand first he told
me but please accept that I will not
join you because I climbed already and
now it’s enough for me and then I also
felt that if I would like to go back
then I would learn about another route
and so I decided to go to the north side
of k2 to try the North pillar and when I
told this Ralph then immediately he told
me calendar if you try to North Billa I
will come with you and everybody can
imagine how happy I was here I show you
an animation from the German Earth’s
observation center you fly more
less-lethal around
k2 and it was so helpful for us during
our preparation we could see the whole
North below we could imagine where it
would be possible to establish a tent
and the most important was that we could
see how long will be the summit reach
its very mentally it’s very important to
be prepared that up there and one day
our meteorologists told us maybe that
21st of August could be a perfect day
for you but the days before are not very
stable so we decided to start into bad
weather and we went up to camp one where
we had to shovel out the
hence it was a lot of snow over there
and it was so much snow that we had to
stay one day and luckily the next day we
had some hours of sunshine so all the
big avalanches came down and this was
the most important for us we were
convinced that the next morning we will
get quite stable weather that we can
continue climbing up to came to but
during the night it was around midnight
the snowfall started again and at 5 o
clock when we left them our tent we had
already quite a lot of snow and then
came the very difficult moment where my
husband Ralph he was just behind me told
me calendar now I stopped climbing it’s
too risky for me and I have no more a
good gut feeling I have to return and
until this moment I was so convinced so
sure that I will try to gather with ryf
also with the others to reach the top of
k2 and in that moment everything turned
around but we had this situation already
some years ago we were discussing about
situations like this and we decided that
if each of us is healthy and strong
enough he can decide by himself and so
Raph did not ask me in the first moment
to turn back but I also did not ask him
please join me so it was very important
that we accepted each other’s decision
the weather did not improve
we had still snowfall the next day but
now the route became so steep that it
was no more LM stranger and finally in
the late afternoon we reached the place
where we shoveled out a small platform
and this was now the first time after
two days that I could speak again with
my husband with Ralph he was very much
worried about us
you see we climbed up to 7000 300 meters
and it was quite cold but then on 7300
in the evening finally the wind
decreased and we had a good night we
could sleep over there we could recover
a little bit and I spoke again with
Ralph by walkie-talkie and he told us
Kalina the next day will be good I’m
very sure about this and I was just
happy I was so motivated and I saw also
that in the upper part that strong very
strong wind has blown away all the snow
and so we found perfect conditions we
moved up to 8,000 meter very quick and
it was just fantastic not one cloud on
the on the sky and we could see all the
cool new mountains and also in this
moment I felt that I get a lot of energy
back from this great nature the next
morning we started right early from our
last camp at 8000 meter we had a
fantastic day the weather was just
perfect only few days you can find
weather like this especially on k2 but
then we are confronted with a lot of
so-called spindrift it’s a very soft
loose snow who comes down by from from
the summit part
and sometimes it’s quite difficult to to
keep the balance and then we tried to
cross the Japanese kahlúa and when we
tried to cross we found snow up to the
waist and it was just too dangerous to
traverse a at that point I called again
Ralf by walkie-talkie I explained him
our big problem it seemed that we had
have to turn back but rifle had seen by
the with the binocular that there is a
big crevasse who leads from the very
right side far to the left side and he
told us we have to climb just below this
Grievous it would be possible and you
can see it was possible we found less
snow and there was no more avalanche
danger but nevertheless we moved them
far too slow we saw that at in during
this day it would not be possible to
reach the top to reach the highest point
and on 8000 meter there’s only one
threat of oxygen pressure left and we
all were not acclimatized we were not
adapted on the low oxygen pressure so we
decided to find a quite safe P work
place over there first we had to cross
this ice wall and we climbed up to
around eight thousand three hundred
metres at once right in the morning we
climbed up some meters maybe around 4050
meter I don’t know anymore exactly but
it was so cold that we couldn’t feel our
fingers and feet and so we had to turn
back to our small Buick tent we went
inside again and we decided to wait on
in the morning time then we will have
maybe warmer temperature we left our be
workplace at 8 o clock in the morning we
knew that it is really late but we were
prepared for 10:00 just some meters
apart we found again snow until our
waist and we try to break trail in three
different directions but it was not
possible to move ahead and maybe you can
imagine for 30 altitude meters we needed
around three hours maybe it’s difficult
to understand what we are doing up there
but there was the big picture willpower
to climb up to the top and the weather
was still perfect so we continued
climbing and this was a part where we
were quite fast but only few meters we
had conditions like this and then we
found the very heavy snow and here we
are already a puffed a very difficult
part and these are the last meters now
up to the snow Ridge and on the snow
ridge we found again perfect conditions
and in this moment a very very strong
feeling came up and gave us a lot of
power then it was so emotional for me to
do the last steps up to the top of k2 it
was a long life dream came true with
this moment it was just so emotional I
felt that it was like a big big present
from the whole universe we reached the
top but it was a big success from the
whole team all these together make made
it that we had a great great success and
once again thank you very much to all of
you thank you very much
you
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