a lot of you have been asking me about
the installation of this LED display in
my mask it’s actually really easy and
today I’ll be showing you how it’s done
this project will require the camión
glasses now this is probably the best
option on the market right now because
everything’s self-contained and you
don’t really even need to buy the
battery compartments if you want to
install this into a paintball mask or
some sort of other costume the other
thing is that it’s Bluetooth compatible
with the app and so you need a
smartphone or Android it also works with
Apple and you go ahead and download the
app camión and you can see that there’s
a little link button up here so we’re
gonna go ahead and make sure that this
thing works before we disassemble it and
you can see that it’s displaying this
specific four-digit code d1 7e so we’re
gonna go ahead and you can see that it’s
already found it
will go ahead and link that and now the
phone is paired with the glasses that’s
a really cool feature because it allows
you to keep your glasses safe from
anyone else who wants to tamper with it
it has to be in this search mode so I
guess if someone was waiting around they
could connect to it but it’s not gonna
allow anyone to connect unless it’s in
this mode when you first turn it on so
you can see another cool effect is this
equalizer so as I’m talking you’ll
actually display the voice fluctuation I
thought that was a really neat effect
and if you want to go and create your
own different display you can go into
the creator and so you’re seeing how
it’s copying what I have on the screen
so we’re going to go back here and we
don’t want to save that because that’s
just junk and then there’s also the
ability to go and there’s like a little
network that you can connect via
Facebook and it will link you with a
bunch of other creators who have
different things for you to check out so
another thing is the thermal lens this
is what I’m going to be installing the
electronics into
best thing about this is that it’s two
layers so you actually would be sliding
the board in between the two layers and
then you want to rewire everything back
into the mask so that’s a nice compact
package so another thing that I’ll show
you is how I reuse the battery
compartments from the original chemi on
glasses and just install them into the
mask it’s really easy you might be able
to do it depending on the mask that
you’re using I’ll take you step-by-step
how I did this I think this display is
really awesome it definitely adds a
unique character and vibe to the mask
and I plan on improving it at the same
time my friend is actually working on
his own helmet by adding all sorts of
badass upgrades he’s even planning on
laminating it with Kevlar to make it
bulletproof so go check out the
superhero armory and subscribe so you
can stay up to date with all his latest
creations I’m captain intrigue in this
episode I’ll be building a superhero
helmet with night vision super hearing
and voice changing capabilities so
here’s a sneak peek at the helmet these
are the night vision goggles that I
built in a previous episode this is the
microphone for the voice changer and
these are my homemade super hearing
headphones which will be on both sides
so now I’ll show you step by step how to
remove the electronics portion from the
glasses it’s really not difficult you
just have to make sure you’re patient
and you don’t want to accidentally strip
the screws because then you’re kind of
literally screwed at that point there is
one right here kind of goes in at an
angle and there’s another one here on
the side you might want to hold on to
these if you decide you want to
reassemble this but for me not too
worried about it then you’re gonna have
these two little clips here that’s kind
of just holding this thing in place now
you might need a small screwdriver just
sort of pry that apart you might
actually damage the plastic but I don’t
plan on reassembling this thing so this
is kind of like your point of no return
so you can see those really thin cables
in there that doesn’t really matter
because you’re not going to be
connecting that that’s just kind of
annoying we’re gonna be getting some
stronger wires just salvaging them from
a other adapter that you could just
probably find in your house you can see
those two wires there it’s kind of want
to just slide it forward and then turn
all right that is probably the most
annoying part I don’t know why they did
it like that so now you can see how the
battery compartment is actually already
built into the glasses this is actually
really neat and you just kind of push
this backward and go you may want to
desolder this at this point so you can
see how the positive and negative
terminals are labeled and even if it
wasn’t you know that red is positive
black is negative
I’m going to go ahead and use our
soldering iron just to attach those
which is just good and heat that up till
it’s sort of liquifies and on the other
side as well and there you go now in
hindsight I should have removed the
battery before doing that now we’re
going to make sure that we first remove
the battery and then just do the same
you’re gonna want to angle this remember
make sure that you have enough downward
pressure so that you don’t strip the
screw okay may want to use the flat-head
screwdriver just sort of pry this I mean
this is by far the most annoying part of
the entire build yeah I know it looks
really ugly but it’s just how it’s got
to be and then we’re going to just
desolder these two wires so go ahead and
just lift this up here this is pretty
much just held in with friction first
would stick this little hook in there
and then press this down so in order to
open this you just pull up all you’re
sort of pulling this way so this side up
while you push and then you have the
wire compartment with a battery just
right there and then we’re going to go
ahead and just you slaughter this and
like I said we’re not going to be using
these little ribbon cables because they
are work of the devil it’s just the most
inconvenient thing and if that would
even just break by making a crease like
if you were to bend that and it wouldn’t
work like they’re the most annoying
thing the next part is working with
removal of the actual display so this is
where you probably get nervous but I
promise you it’s not that big of a deal
so there is
a screw here one right on the nose plate
here which may or may not actually be
necessary to remove I don’t know because
it’s just this little piece of like
rubber here and then there’s another two
right here okay and then now that we’ve
already disassembled the batteries it
really doesn’t matter you can move these
there’s two more screws on the top and
bottom of the little hinge
you’ll notice these ones are a little
bit longer than the other screws
and then that just kind of gets removed
yeah just be careful with these screws
you don’t want to strip anything
although these ones aren’t as important
because it just holds the hinge together
all right so let’s clear this out you
can see how thin those wires are this is
why it gets a little bit annoying but
like I said these don’t matter because
you’re going to be soldering a much
stronger connection to the board and you
don’t need to worry about any sort of
flexion in the actual piece everything
is pretty much housed in between these
two pieces all right so that’s one piece
and you can see that’s actually what is
holding this thing in place and there’s
a screw there and a screw there all
right so now we have some gloves on and
you go ahead and remove the display
remember you want be very careful at
this point and you can see how it’s just
already lifting right off of platform
and the wires just kind of comes out
right there and the other one right here
again make sure that you’re very careful
at this part you don’t want to slip and
then stab the and scratch any of the
LEDs so just be very gentle no big deal
and there is your board we’ll just go
ahead and rest it on that piece right
there now if you want to check out and
see if it still works you can go ahead
and solder the electronics back on
so make sure that you remove the battery
first I really don’t care about
connecting it back to this so I’m going
to now remove the actual connections you
can see the positive and the negative
still on there the positive is at the
top and then give them the bottom and
here it says bat + bat negative so
really really simple all right
and desolder this to desolder something
you just need a soldering iron you do
basically laid on there until it looks
like it gets liquefied and you can tell
it’ll just sink right in okay and then
you just want to do it to the other side
well it’s still sort of molten and good
and just kind of show you now notice
that these are both still separated you
don’t want to accidentally have the
solder transfer over onto the positive
side otherwise it’s not going to work so
now that we have the board removed and
we still have our two battery
connections we’re gonna go and resaw to
this to the board you’re gonna have to
decide how long you want the extensions
to be and you may even want to create
your own extensions with a little bit of
a thicker wire or create a better
soldering joint here so you just go
ahead and heat up that slaughter and
that connects right to the board and
then with this wire same thing heat up
the solder on the actual piece of wire
and then just dab it onto the board same
with this one
now this soldering board is at 400
degrees so it heats up pretty quickly
alright so I guess this is the moment of
truth to see if actually still works all
right and it does still work let’s see
if we still have a good connection we
have bluetooth and we’ll go ahead and
yep found it link and then go into
equalizer just as a test you can see
that it’s still working so here is the
thermal lens this piece of plastic now
this is the layer that allows you to be
protected from your lenses fogging up
there’s an air layer in between he was a
hairdryer just to very lightly heat up
the foam layer and you can actually peel
back the adhesive so that you can access
the inner portion where you’re going to
lay the actual board you can see the
wires this is actually the old battery
cap if you heat this up with a hairdryer
it will allow you to sort of stretch it
almost like saran wrap over top of this
and then you just use an exacto knife to
cut the excess and that looks pretty
nice I’d say and then it fits just right
back on this portion here and I used
some velcro pieces just to attach that
that’s kind of hid in there and it works
out pretty nice right there and side of
the mask it’s connecting and it goes
back to the two terminals on the actual
board I’d say that’s about eight inches
of extra wire maybe you want to go nine
just in case you need a little bit of
excess but it’s going from the face
portion over up you can see this will
kind of lip or
I know what you want to call it and I
just kind of sat there so if there was
any extra tension had a little bit of
give on the actual wire so you don’t
tear any of the wires out and then that
goes to this portion right in the front
same with the other side you can see it
goes from those two terminals you have
your positive and negative and then it
goes through this little hole right here
and then back over and around and to
this other side with the battery
connection the last thing I was a little
bit of a challenge was trying to connect
the actual on/off switch so you’re gonna
have to make something like this so
you’re gonna need one of these small
momentary switches and then I attach the
positive and negative I also added some
heat-shrink and then I heated it up with
a lighter and then I crimped it using a
pair of pliers this is some 18 gauge
wire this is actually been salvaged from
an old wall adapter so I’m sure you have
lots of these hanging around your house
if you don’t use them or maybe you have
them just like stored somewhere you just
cut that wire this actually works just
as well or you can buy the 18 gauge wire
use that for the majority and also some
heat shrink tubing just to make sure
that is everything was uniform and you
can never go wrong with heat shrink
tubing you can always remove it it’s
just whenever you don’t have it and you
already did the solder connection it’s
like the only other option is electrical
tape and two pieces together and then
combining it with another large piece to
connect this a little bit difficult to
show you in the actual mask so I’m going
to show you on the one that we just took
apart you can see that on both sides of
the actual terminal that there is a
little piece here now all that is is
just a connection on both sides when you
press down this button you get
voltage that turns on the circuit so all
you need to do is connect a wire to the
top and bottom portion right there I
don’t see any other way to turn it on
while it’s inside of the actual mask the
thermal lens but it’s honestly not very
difficult and I’m try and show you where
I’ve done it on mine so you can see that
there is a wire attached here and here
and then that’s going back threading
through this portion and then it’s just
going to connect to the actual button
here and then you can see when you hold
that in the display goes on and when you
hold it again turns off so the wires are
actually traveling through this little
groove here there’s a little hole I
don’t know if that’s easy as see let’s
try and focus on that but there’s a hole
right here and the rest just goes into
this little pocket now I’ve already
explained that the part that you’re
probably wondering is where does the
wire go so right here you can see it’s
connected to the board it’s going back
into the mask and then back through that
hole that I just showed you it’s on both
sides same thing here with the wires
going back across kind of like
sunglasses on this it’s going over the
ear and right back there okay and then
there is this wire that just goes into
this hole and just lays right on top of
there and you can just jam it into that
little groove and to close this thing up
you just would push these pieces back in
and
things pretty durable and that’s it boom
beautiful so I was gonna go like full
throttle wrench and add like all the
weird
punky spikes and have this thing but it
just ended up looking like crap I mean
that’s not the right size then I tried
making like a stencil and adding like
this type of thing to it it just did not
work there’s not enough adhesion and
then plus whenever you add the spikes to
this sort of foam with the sticky
adhesive back it pulls away and creates
like a little crater there and it just
would not actually stick after a decent
amount of time so I’m like okay I’m not
gonna make this tutorial for someone to
try it out if it’s not going to be a
solid project in the end so
unfortunately I didn’t really get the
full wrench look but that was never the
intent to begin with I just wanted a
cool mask and a lot of people were
thinking that this was wrench and I
think that this is a really good
tutorial if you want to create a wrench
mask I don’t think anyone’s gonna stop
once they don’t find the right YouTube
tutorial if they’re really interested in
creating this cosplay character or
adding this effect to their favorite
mask so I think that for what it’s worth
this tutorial is helpful or it should be
and if you have any questions you should
always just reach out ask me via
Instagram or Facebook or email whatever
it’s really not a big deal and I like
that you are engaging and that you’re
interested in what I’m teaching you so
that’s definitely a motivator also when
people subscribe and like that’s also a
huge motivation to continue making
videos so thank you so much for watching
I hope this was helpful and
you’re able to apply this to whichever
project you like as always take it easy
[Music]
the installation of this LED display in
my mask it’s actually really easy and
today I’ll be showing you how it’s done
this project will require the camión
glasses now this is probably the best
option on the market right now because
everything’s self-contained and you
don’t really even need to buy the
battery compartments if you want to
install this into a paintball mask or
some sort of other costume the other
thing is that it’s Bluetooth compatible
with the app and so you need a
smartphone or Android it also works with
Apple and you go ahead and download the
app camión and you can see that there’s
a little link button up here so we’re
gonna go ahead and make sure that this
thing works before we disassemble it and
you can see that it’s displaying this
specific four-digit code d1 7e so we’re
gonna go ahead and you can see that it’s
already found it
will go ahead and link that and now the
phone is paired with the glasses that’s
a really cool feature because it allows
you to keep your glasses safe from
anyone else who wants to tamper with it
it has to be in this search mode so I
guess if someone was waiting around they
could connect to it but it’s not gonna
allow anyone to connect unless it’s in
this mode when you first turn it on so
you can see another cool effect is this
equalizer so as I’m talking you’ll
actually display the voice fluctuation I
thought that was a really neat effect
and if you want to go and create your
own different display you can go into
the creator and so you’re seeing how
it’s copying what I have on the screen
so we’re going to go back here and we
don’t want to save that because that’s
just junk and then there’s also the
ability to go and there’s like a little
network that you can connect via
Facebook and it will link you with a
bunch of other creators who have
different things for you to check out so
another thing is the thermal lens this
is what I’m going to be installing the
electronics into
best thing about this is that it’s two
layers so you actually would be sliding
the board in between the two layers and
then you want to rewire everything back
into the mask so that’s a nice compact
package so another thing that I’ll show
you is how I reuse the battery
compartments from the original chemi on
glasses and just install them into the
mask it’s really easy you might be able
to do it depending on the mask that
you’re using I’ll take you step-by-step
how I did this I think this display is
really awesome it definitely adds a
unique character and vibe to the mask
and I plan on improving it at the same
time my friend is actually working on
his own helmet by adding all sorts of
badass upgrades he’s even planning on
laminating it with Kevlar to make it
bulletproof so go check out the
superhero armory and subscribe so you
can stay up to date with all his latest
creations I’m captain intrigue in this
episode I’ll be building a superhero
helmet with night vision super hearing
and voice changing capabilities so
here’s a sneak peek at the helmet these
are the night vision goggles that I
built in a previous episode this is the
microphone for the voice changer and
these are my homemade super hearing
headphones which will be on both sides
so now I’ll show you step by step how to
remove the electronics portion from the
glasses it’s really not difficult you
just have to make sure you’re patient
and you don’t want to accidentally strip
the screws because then you’re kind of
literally screwed at that point there is
one right here kind of goes in at an
angle and there’s another one here on
the side you might want to hold on to
these if you decide you want to
reassemble this but for me not too
worried about it then you’re gonna have
these two little clips here that’s kind
of just holding this thing in place now
you might need a small screwdriver just
sort of pry that apart you might
actually damage the plastic but I don’t
plan on reassembling this thing so this
is kind of like your point of no return
so you can see those really thin cables
in there that doesn’t really matter
because you’re not going to be
connecting that that’s just kind of
annoying we’re gonna be getting some
stronger wires just salvaging them from
a other adapter that you could just
probably find in your house you can see
those two wires there it’s kind of want
to just slide it forward and then turn
all right that is probably the most
annoying part I don’t know why they did
it like that so now you can see how the
battery compartment is actually already
built into the glasses this is actually
really neat and you just kind of push
this backward and go you may want to
desolder this at this point so you can
see how the positive and negative
terminals are labeled and even if it
wasn’t you know that red is positive
black is negative
I’m going to go ahead and use our
soldering iron just to attach those
which is just good and heat that up till
it’s sort of liquifies and on the other
side as well and there you go now in
hindsight I should have removed the
battery before doing that now we’re
going to make sure that we first remove
the battery and then just do the same
you’re gonna want to angle this remember
make sure that you have enough downward
pressure so that you don’t strip the
screw okay may want to use the flat-head
screwdriver just sort of pry this I mean
this is by far the most annoying part of
the entire build yeah I know it looks
really ugly but it’s just how it’s got
to be and then we’re going to just
desolder these two wires so go ahead and
just lift this up here this is pretty
much just held in with friction first
would stick this little hook in there
and then press this down so in order to
open this you just pull up all you’re
sort of pulling this way so this side up
while you push and then you have the
wire compartment with a battery just
right there and then we’re going to go
ahead and just you slaughter this and
like I said we’re not going to be using
these little ribbon cables because they
are work of the devil it’s just the most
inconvenient thing and if that would
even just break by making a crease like
if you were to bend that and it wouldn’t
work like they’re the most annoying
thing the next part is working with
removal of the actual display so this is
where you probably get nervous but I
promise you it’s not that big of a deal
so there is
a screw here one right on the nose plate
here which may or may not actually be
necessary to remove I don’t know because
it’s just this little piece of like
rubber here and then there’s another two
right here okay and then now that we’ve
already disassembled the batteries it
really doesn’t matter you can move these
there’s two more screws on the top and
bottom of the little hinge
you’ll notice these ones are a little
bit longer than the other screws
and then that just kind of gets removed
yeah just be careful with these screws
you don’t want to strip anything
although these ones aren’t as important
because it just holds the hinge together
all right so let’s clear this out you
can see how thin those wires are this is
why it gets a little bit annoying but
like I said these don’t matter because
you’re going to be soldering a much
stronger connection to the board and you
don’t need to worry about any sort of
flexion in the actual piece everything
is pretty much housed in between these
two pieces all right so that’s one piece
and you can see that’s actually what is
holding this thing in place and there’s
a screw there and a screw there all
right so now we have some gloves on and
you go ahead and remove the display
remember you want be very careful at
this point and you can see how it’s just
already lifting right off of platform
and the wires just kind of comes out
right there and the other one right here
again make sure that you’re very careful
at this part you don’t want to slip and
then stab the and scratch any of the
LEDs so just be very gentle no big deal
and there is your board we’ll just go
ahead and rest it on that piece right
there now if you want to check out and
see if it still works you can go ahead
and solder the electronics back on
so make sure that you remove the battery
first I really don’t care about
connecting it back to this so I’m going
to now remove the actual connections you
can see the positive and the negative
still on there the positive is at the
top and then give them the bottom and
here it says bat + bat negative so
really really simple all right
and desolder this to desolder something
you just need a soldering iron you do
basically laid on there until it looks
like it gets liquefied and you can tell
it’ll just sink right in okay and then
you just want to do it to the other side
well it’s still sort of molten and good
and just kind of show you now notice
that these are both still separated you
don’t want to accidentally have the
solder transfer over onto the positive
side otherwise it’s not going to work so
now that we have the board removed and
we still have our two battery
connections we’re gonna go and resaw to
this to the board you’re gonna have to
decide how long you want the extensions
to be and you may even want to create
your own extensions with a little bit of
a thicker wire or create a better
soldering joint here so you just go
ahead and heat up that slaughter and
that connects right to the board and
then with this wire same thing heat up
the solder on the actual piece of wire
and then just dab it onto the board same
with this one
now this soldering board is at 400
degrees so it heats up pretty quickly
alright so I guess this is the moment of
truth to see if actually still works all
right and it does still work let’s see
if we still have a good connection we
have bluetooth and we’ll go ahead and
yep found it link and then go into
equalizer just as a test you can see
that it’s still working so here is the
thermal lens this piece of plastic now
this is the layer that allows you to be
protected from your lenses fogging up
there’s an air layer in between he was a
hairdryer just to very lightly heat up
the foam layer and you can actually peel
back the adhesive so that you can access
the inner portion where you’re going to
lay the actual board you can see the
wires this is actually the old battery
cap if you heat this up with a hairdryer
it will allow you to sort of stretch it
almost like saran wrap over top of this
and then you just use an exacto knife to
cut the excess and that looks pretty
nice I’d say and then it fits just right
back on this portion here and I used
some velcro pieces just to attach that
that’s kind of hid in there and it works
out pretty nice right there and side of
the mask it’s connecting and it goes
back to the two terminals on the actual
board I’d say that’s about eight inches
of extra wire maybe you want to go nine
just in case you need a little bit of
excess but it’s going from the face
portion over up you can see this will
kind of lip or
I know what you want to call it and I
just kind of sat there so if there was
any extra tension had a little bit of
give on the actual wire so you don’t
tear any of the wires out and then that
goes to this portion right in the front
same with the other side you can see it
goes from those two terminals you have
your positive and negative and then it
goes through this little hole right here
and then back over and around and to
this other side with the battery
connection the last thing I was a little
bit of a challenge was trying to connect
the actual on/off switch so you’re gonna
have to make something like this so
you’re gonna need one of these small
momentary switches and then I attach the
positive and negative I also added some
heat-shrink and then I heated it up with
a lighter and then I crimped it using a
pair of pliers this is some 18 gauge
wire this is actually been salvaged from
an old wall adapter so I’m sure you have
lots of these hanging around your house
if you don’t use them or maybe you have
them just like stored somewhere you just
cut that wire this actually works just
as well or you can buy the 18 gauge wire
use that for the majority and also some
heat shrink tubing just to make sure
that is everything was uniform and you
can never go wrong with heat shrink
tubing you can always remove it it’s
just whenever you don’t have it and you
already did the solder connection it’s
like the only other option is electrical
tape and two pieces together and then
combining it with another large piece to
connect this a little bit difficult to
show you in the actual mask so I’m going
to show you on the one that we just took
apart you can see that on both sides of
the actual terminal that there is a
little piece here now all that is is
just a connection on both sides when you
press down this button you get
voltage that turns on the circuit so all
you need to do is connect a wire to the
top and bottom portion right there I
don’t see any other way to turn it on
while it’s inside of the actual mask the
thermal lens but it’s honestly not very
difficult and I’m try and show you where
I’ve done it on mine so you can see that
there is a wire attached here and here
and then that’s going back threading
through this portion and then it’s just
going to connect to the actual button
here and then you can see when you hold
that in the display goes on and when you
hold it again turns off so the wires are
actually traveling through this little
groove here there’s a little hole I
don’t know if that’s easy as see let’s
try and focus on that but there’s a hole
right here and the rest just goes into
this little pocket now I’ve already
explained that the part that you’re
probably wondering is where does the
wire go so right here you can see it’s
connected to the board it’s going back
into the mask and then back through that
hole that I just showed you it’s on both
sides same thing here with the wires
going back across kind of like
sunglasses on this it’s going over the
ear and right back there okay and then
there is this wire that just goes into
this hole and just lays right on top of
there and you can just jam it into that
little groove and to close this thing up
you just would push these pieces back in
and
things pretty durable and that’s it boom
beautiful so I was gonna go like full
throttle wrench and add like all the
weird
punky spikes and have this thing but it
just ended up looking like crap I mean
that’s not the right size then I tried
making like a stencil and adding like
this type of thing to it it just did not
work there’s not enough adhesion and
then plus whenever you add the spikes to
this sort of foam with the sticky
adhesive back it pulls away and creates
like a little crater there and it just
would not actually stick after a decent
amount of time so I’m like okay I’m not
gonna make this tutorial for someone to
try it out if it’s not going to be a
solid project in the end so
unfortunately I didn’t really get the
full wrench look but that was never the
intent to begin with I just wanted a
cool mask and a lot of people were
thinking that this was wrench and I
think that this is a really good
tutorial if you want to create a wrench
mask I don’t think anyone’s gonna stop
once they don’t find the right YouTube
tutorial if they’re really interested in
creating this cosplay character or
adding this effect to their favorite
mask so I think that for what it’s worth
this tutorial is helpful or it should be
and if you have any questions you should
always just reach out ask me via
Instagram or Facebook or email whatever
it’s really not a big deal and I like
that you are engaging and that you’re
interested in what I’m teaching you so
that’s definitely a motivator also when
people subscribe and like that’s also a
huge motivation to continue making
videos so thank you so much for watching
I hope this was helpful and
you’re able to apply this to whichever
project you like as always take it easy
[Music]
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