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What’s in Conditioner? | Ingredients With George Zaidan (Episode 8)


what’s in here what’s it do and can I
make it from scratch the stuff inside
your Sun ingredients the point of hair
conditioner is pretty much exactly what
the TV says it is to give you sleep
shiny manageable hair and to protect it
from all kinds of damage both accidental
and on purpose and I can’t believe I’m
about to say this but when it comes to
conditioner there’s truth in advertising
almost but we will come back to that
later now to understand how conditioner
works we need to first understand how
hair works specifically the outermost
layer of hair which is called the epic
Utica now the epic Utica is thin one
ten-thousandth the thickness of a full
strand of hair thin but it’s the most
important part because that’s where the
conditioner interacts now the inside of
the epic Utica is formed by a group of
proteins called keratin and because of
the way they fold keratins are
negatively charged on the outside
remember that it’s going to be important
later the keratins also serve as anchors
for the outer part of the epic Utica
fatty acids molecules with long carbon
chains just like fats but back to
conditioners let’s look at the
ingredients of these two popular
conditioners now we can split these up
into two groups one the stuff that
actually conditions your hair and two
everything else now I’m going to focus
on the stuff that actually conditions
your hair we can split this group up
into three chemical families first
quaternary ammonium salts or quat’s for
short a quat is a nitrogen atom with one
or more long chains of carbon attached
to it like you’d find in a fat the
critical thing about quat’s is that
nitrogen is positively charged so it’s
attracted to the negatively charged hair
surface and combined to it leaving that
long fatty acid tail sticking up the
second category is fatty alcohols most
commonly settle or sederot alcohol now
these are not like the alcohol you may
be used to the stuff in here is ethanol
it’s got two carbons fatty alcohols have
more weigh more carbons like 16 or 17 or
even more than that and then there’s
bligh called distearate which is
technically not an alcohol but the
structure is sort of similar so we’re
going to lump it into this cat
now if all of these look like quat’s
that’s because they all have long fatty
carbon chains the third and final
category are the silicon compounds
dimethicone a modem ethic own
dimethicone all and cyclo penta siloxane
the whole point of any conditioner is to
lubricate which makes combing a lot
easier and that reduces the forces on
the very tips of your hair which is why
conditioners help prevent split ends
lubrication also means less of that less
static charge build-up which means fewer
flyaways of the silicones in particular
they form a thin oily film on the
surface of your hair and yes that helps
lubricate but it also reflects light
which makes your hair shiny there are
some other chemicals that are used to
condition hair like some polymers but
these are the most common and they’re
all oily or fatty now if you’re thinkin
why would I add oils or fats to my hair
that’s gross remember that conditioners
are actually replenishing the natural
fattiness or oiliness that’s already in
your hair and on your hair so why would
a single conditioner have more than one
type of conditioning agent well because
combinations usually work better than a
single type alone and certain mixtures
of quat’s and fatty alcohols can form
these extended gel networks that make
the conditioners thicker and that brings
me full circle back to truth in
advertising
look conditioner does what it says it’s
going to do it gives you sleek shiny
manageable hair but like with other
consumer products
people sometimes buy conditioner based
on stuff that has nothing to do with how
well it actually works for example
thickness manufacturers add thickeners
to conditioner to make them extra creamy
even though how thick they are doesn’t
really have much to do with how well
they coat your hair or take glycol
distearate now this molecule does do
some conditioning but manufacturers
mostly added for opaqueness or pearl
essence which apparently we like and
then there’s the label manufacturers
will highlight certain ingredients right
on the front of the label stuff like and
I kid you not
ultra whipped egg white proteins cherry
blossom ginseng our Pookie ginger or
more basic stuff like coconut milk or
vitamin E or even apricot now lots of
people swear by this kind of stuff but
I’ve also heard these conditioners
referred to as kitchen sink conditioners
because you literally add anything you
can think of and hope that one of your
random ingredients make someone buy the
product in the end it comes down to what
works for your hair everybody’s is a
little bit different especially if
you’ve chemically changed it in some way
so I’d say just go out and try a few to
her brands and see what works best I buy
mine based on smell alone so there’s
that so the main ingredients in
commissioners are quats fatty alcohols
and silicones I’m gonna try and make
conditioner from scratch using only
natural ingredients starting with settle
alcohol now if I add a bunch of thyme I
would make it from palm oil but I don’t
so I just bought some and instead of
silicones I’m using olive oil and
coconut oil for fragrance I’ve got
peppermint and rosemary essential oils
because they smell delightful
now all these ingredients are fattier
oily and since I don’t want to be
rubbing pure fatty oily stuff into my
hair I’m gonna make an oil in water
emulsion which is basically salad
dressing it’s what most manufacturers do
and it’s the reason that water is
usually the number one ingredient on
conditioner labels now to keep
everything together
my emulsifier is going to be soy
lecithin so let’s do this and see what
happens
[Music]
okay so after a couple minutes a
blending looks like we kind of have like
a jiggly mayonnaise which is actually a
good sign because mayonnaise is an
emulsion so I’m gonna let this cool and
then put in my hair
all right guys
got my conditioner I’m going to try it
looks pretty so as you can see it’s torn
out pretty easy and overnight this
turned from that sort of hard thick
mayonnaise consistency to a more liquidy
conditioner consistency which is cool
and I did not expect that it doesn’t
really feel very conditioner so I’m just
gonna there we go
oh yeah there is okay that’s much better
okay yes now it feels like conditioner
so now it feels like not quite as rich
or if work fatty for lack of a better
word as a real conditioner but not half
bad it definitely is coating my hair and
as you can see just sort of coating my
hands too as a normal conditioner would
although an alarming number of my hairs
are coming out I’ll see how it friends
is awesome hey this feels remarkably
like conditioner I give this as seven
and a half out of ten I’d like it to be
a little bit less fluid so it doesn’t
drip everywhere and I was kind of
disappointed that I had to use so much
of it to get
condition or effect but overall not half
bad alright if you guys have any ideas
on how to improve this recipe let me
know in the comments or please hit me up
on Twitter and for now I’m going to need
some privacy please
[Music]
hot how ha
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