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Purpose – Lessons from Expeditions Life | Oli Broadhead | TEDxUniversityofEdinburgh


okay hi guys my name’s Olly broadhead

I’m 21 years old and I’ve wanted to be

an explorer since I was about seven so

over the last three years at University

I’ve gone on three expeditions to Norway

across India and to Sumatra I’m going to

be talking to you about those today so I

went to university to study biology at

Bristol when I was 18 and for a variety

of reasons i took a six-month dive into

depression but i managed to recover

towards the end of that first year and I

scraped through my final exams I got

forty percent that’s exactly the great

boundary to not retake so I was relieved

but I also needed to escape so I went

home and I booked a flight to norway I’d

come up this idea I wanted to cycle than

the far south all the way up to the

Arctic Circle this was a really stupid

idea

because I don’t cycle and because I’ve

given myself 24 hours until the flight

so one o’clock in the morning I’m

desperately trying to plan this route i

just finished packing i actually gave up

planning that route because i realized i

was going to the Arctic and it’s north

and you can just take a compass it’s

easy next thing I know I’m in Norway I

have a borrowed by 25 kilograms on it

and it’s got a broken rear brake but I

set off first day great second day bit

less great third day I got lost 80

kilometers in the wrong direction it was

raining constantly I finished with two

punctures and it went on like this one

day I would have a baby moves outside my

tent in the morning the next day it

would hail 48 hours the next day i would

have lunch of mountain and the next i

would cry my tent because i hadn’t

talked to anyone but a moose in a week

my mate Nico the guy left me the bike

came out five days for the end and after

a month we reached the Arctic Circle we

arrived past midnight that’s the winter

Sun those summer solstice 24-hour day

like that photo is at one in the morning

it was incredible and the next year at

uni went much better because I wasn’t

freaking out about what I was doing with

my life I was planning my next

expedition I’d come up this idea that I

wanted to walk across India and that’s

much bigger that was going to take three

months and I’d spent three weeks alone

in Norway and almost gone completely

insane so I put an advert on facebook

today I want to join me and this guy

Angus said yes because he thought it

we went very light we have those packs

45 litre bags there were seven kilograms

as you can see no tent we were eating by

the roadside eating rice cakes those

cost 20 pence we were living on 70 p

each a day this cell route once again i

was avoiding planning a route so we just

followed a river the kaveri river it’s

the southernmost of the great sacred

rivers in india someone once asked me if

you’re so bad at route planning how come

you get lost all the time my reply is if

you don’t plan a route it’s impossible

to get lost we started in the state of

Tamil Nadu at the end of a four-year

drought that is a river mouth that’s a

bridge in the background it was

completely dry it was 40 degrees in the

day three days in I got heat stroke so

we switched to walking at night it’s

great idea two weeks later we’re coming

down oops through these Boulder fields

and Angus taps me on the shoulder points

behind me and oh there’s a leopard so

for the next hour we were followed by it

down to these boulders and have got to

next village where we climbed onto a

roof and we spent the night leopard

activity did not stop there this route

has a fairly obvious kink in it that’s

not a straight way to walk across a

country we were trying to cross this

mountain pass up to my saw and just

fully arrived there was two fatal

leopard attacks this leopard was not

caught and so we switched from a

hundred-kilometer mountain route to a

400 kilometer detour which took us

through away from beautiful rural India

the ribbon that did now thankfully have

ordered it at into bangalore and

Bangalore is a 60 kilometer wide city it

took us five days to walk across because

we’re walking in this it was a nightmare

they don’t have catalytic converters on

the cars and India so it’s just coming

out the back you’re wiping it off you at

the end of the day and we are still

sleeping rough at this point

but from here it got much easier we

moved up into elephant forest it’s high

altitude it’s lovely it’s much cooler

that is an elephant footprint on our

first day out of bangalore the night

after this photo was taken we were

setting up our camp at the corner of

field in the distance we could see the

tree line and we’re just going to sleep

when these farmers come over and they’re

like oh you’re sleeping here I’m like oh

so you know sorry but we can move on

like reading find different field if

this is if this is an issue no no my

friend my friend of course not you know

very well can stay here I just wanted to

let you know that I came down last

tuesday at six in the morning and tiger

so he kept walking and we didn’t find a

village this time but what we did find

was a bus shelter an indian bus shelter

that brilliant their concrete 15-foot

tall tiger proof they’re all so

wonderful on top your lovely little

ledge as Angus with his phone and you

get a five-star hotel view from the top

of an indian bus shelter and yet fruit

bats in the morning from here we moved

up into the western ghats mountain range

on the west coast the monsoon hit at

this point how do you sleep outside with

no tent in a monsoon you don’t you go

and you get eaten by leeches but after

two weeks of this we did reach Cass

regard it’s a coastal town on the

Arabian Sea and we’d walked across India

it took us just over two months in total

India we faced some fairly sketchy

moments some moments when there wasn’t

anyone we could particularly ask for

help and there were fairly serious

consequences to making the right call in

those situations and when I try to

remember when i’m back in the UK is that

ninety percent the stuff that was

happening my third year at uni with

units and such like if i fail one of

those it’s not really a big issue I’m

not going to end up on the street I can

ask my tutor for help it’s like climbing

with the right versus climbing without a

rope the point isn’t that you can fail

so you should fail it’s that you’ll

climb much better with the Rope because

you push yourself right to the limit of

your ability and it’s no big deal if you

do mess up and most people don’t have

that safety net so I try to take it as

some sort of responsibility I have to

try and push myself because I can afford

to take those risks so norway was just

an adventure india we combined adventure

with complete submersion in a foreign

culture for three months I wanted to

bring in science so my girlfriend who’s

a biologist and I decided we would go to

Sumatra and we would conduct a

biological survey we got in contact with

local researchers and they said oh

you’ve got to go to this valley we’ve

been looking at for ages it’s 40

kilometers long we think there’s a rang

at Ang’s there no one’s ever been there

absolutely unspoiled pristine no

research we’re like brilliant started

trying to get permits two months I’ve

just constantly being denied we flew out

with no permits when we got there bad

news we got denied when we arrived and

the valley had been logged and it had

been poached the officials were in on

this and that’s why we’re being refused

research permits so we went to plan B a

friend of a friend was making the first

a sense of mountains in the province of

a che so a bit about HJ it had come out

of a civil war 30

long in 2005 the Civil War only ended

because of how many people died in the

2004 tsunami because of this the

mountains run client because of this the

forests are still pristine so we came up

with this plan with side and Roy what

we’d do is we’d walk out to an unclimbed

mountain climate and then come back and

on the way in we’d record data on the

way out we would record we would repeat

our data so we set off unlike India

you’ve got to carry everything in

because we’re in completely isolated

jungle we would bury it as we went if

you wonder how you find a buried bag in

a rainforest you don’t always we never

saw that bag again s’okay 25 kilogram

packs each waiting upriver for the first

three days it only gets really difficult

when you move off river this is sought

trainer in its crawling more than

walking it’s horrible you have to cut as

you go sort of thing it’s just a giant

bramble patch so machetes you’re hacking

through this stuff it’s rotten it’s what

a conservatory furniture is made of but

that’s the baby stuff this is the real

deal so stick as your family it’s

usually at eye level and I guarantee if

you slip in the mud and you reach out to

grab a nice handy branch it will be this

stuff water is another big issue it

rains a lot in the rain forest but

there’s a lot of leaf litter so it

drains way almost immediately and it’s

all sucked up by all the trees so you

dig for water the one on the this side

is our drinking water that side is our

kerosene for our camping fuel so all of

this we were doing 11 hours a day and we

were walking about 2.5 kilometers so

that’s some idea so all of this doesn’t

put in a very good mood to do data

collection but we did try and what we

did find was absolutely fantastic we

found I think over 50 bird species just

in the first week also by this point

about weekend we were in areas where

even the village hunters aren’t going so

if we go in a cave everyone has ever

been there before if we see monkeys

they’ll freak out and come and stare at

us for an hour because those monkeys

haven’t seen humans before absolutely

fantastic and after ten days we arrived

at base camp

where we’re setting up at a base mount

Couric herein lay a problem we had

planned for an equatorial country at low

altitude so we were wearing you know

shirts shorts no 10 no real reindeer and

base x 2500 meters it was five degrees

in the day I remember when I took this

photo I just come out in the morning I

find Roy by the fire I was like how’d

you sleep last night and he says I

didn’t i SAT and prayed for morning and

that was how it’s going to be for the

next week so the biggest issue are maps

I maps of the area were completely

inaccurate it turned out we only

realized that after about ten days

they’re off by a few hundred meters so

we’d expected a ridge going up to the

peak of a 3000 80 meter unclimbed

mountain what we got was a series of

vertical faces we couldn’t do it we

tried to find alternate route whilst

we’re doing this Roy well it was just an

awkward accident he was going to whack a

tree trunk with his machete and it

wasn’t a tree trunk it was a boulder

with moss on it and it worked back up at

him and it kind of got his finger pretty

badly Roy was then stuck at camp and

actually a moment on this ya boy is

devout Muslim and he despite this had

agreed to come with us even though it

was the middle of Ramadan so he wasn’t

eating or drinking in the day he wasn’t

taking painkillers in the day I was very

impressed he was sort of curled up by

the fire meditating but say dearest and

myself we decided to climb a neighboring

mountain mount lambert 3050 meters this

mountain is not own client we knew it

had been climbed before by colonial

dutch during the dutch attorneys war

almost 100 years ago and when we got to

the top we dug down to about a foot of

moss I found this this is a concrete

slab left by Dutch soldiers that says

March the 31st 1931 and we will have

been the first people to have found that

since they were there almost a hundred

years ago it’s fantastic what was more

fantastic

was the view that is 650 square

kilometres of pristine rainforest and

what’s even more brilliant about this

for me was that we just crawled on our

hands and knees and through thorns and

everything under the canopy you don’t

see this when you’re in a rainforest you

see all these beautiful BBC footage when

you’re actually there it’s dark and it’s

cold and it’s wet it’s horrible so you

need to be up high and suddenly this

just falls away in front of you it’s

fantastic they were Gibbons calling up

in the mountain below it was also the

first time I’d got signal in a week I

missed graduation to go to Sumatra and

my brother had texted me smiley face 21

/ sad face Rex it and I don’t care what

your political persuasion is but my

girlfriend Arastoo is with me she’s from

Austria and it was not fun to break her

that to her we won’t continue for

another month we walked down to the

Indian Ocean we were walking still

through RJ and just tiny bit more in

Aceh actually is ninety-eight percent

Muslim it has Sharia law and like said

just come out of a civil war in 2005 I

was genuinely scared before I went there

I ended up being a bit ashamed of how

scared I was because it was the

friendliest place I’ve ever been once we

came out the jungle we had three weeks

where every single night every village

we arrived at we’ve been invited into

someone’s home we’d be given food and be

welcomed into their family it was 100%

hospitality it was wonderful for me

waking up on an expedition every single

day I’m waking up with a purpose and

every minute of that day is purposeful

because I’m working towards that purpose

even if I’m just suffering along

staggering along as long as I keep

moving I’m just getting closer to that

goal and that makes you happy doesn’t

matter how horrible it is you’ve just

got this general background feeling of

accomplishment and it’s wonderful so for

me it’s not about when we talk about

purpose it’s not about finding some big

life goal what’s my overwhelming life

purpose that I aim towards it’s like

this misty thing off in the distance no

it’s about finding something you can do

every single day it gives you a sense of

purpose and a sense of accomplishment

and that’s what makes me happy but I

know what will make you happy so we

leave that with you and for now I’m just

going to keep going on expeditions thank you very much

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