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Do I read you? | Ari Versluis | TEDxDornbirn


[Music]
[Applause]
good afternoon I like to take you on a
speedy trip to mind world and have a
look at society and how complex themes
as individuality identity inclusiveness
all are easily revealed by simply and
foremost a form of intensified
observation and active encounters I hope
to relieve the awareness of apparel and
fashion as a language a language that
sometimes rockhard protest sometimes
wants to be poetic sometimes is
completely lost in translations and
sometimes it really lies when you
sharpen your focus in the public domain
you will definitely we all do recognize
patterns and repetitions of dress codes
this can sometimes lead to the discovery
of new social groups you suddenly become
aware since 1994 I work with my
colleague Alan look he’s a professional
profiler on the series we call
exactitude my to all the people that are
portrayed are actually Street constant
they were invited to come into the
studio after an active and country and
in studio they were portrayed as fashion
models then we returned together and the
series are the results so we can say
that executives are is investigation all
notions of identity
this project is described by others as
an almost scientific and topological
records of people’s attempt to
distinguish themselves by assuming a
group identity whoa there’s an apparent
contradiction here
between individuality and uniformity but
not if we look as to identity as a
construction that is in essence formed
by our surroundings we constantly
mirrored by horrid surroundings
we are constantly pushed around by the
wish to belong to the group and on the
other hand we strive for total
independence we seem to be alright when
there is a balance between those two
sharp observation in the public domain
we’ll also open up your eyes
for individuals who seem to stand out
but paradoxically when you observe them
closer they will form new groups of
their own as well it’s very interesting
because it raises the question and
sometimes asked why do all nonconformist
is not the same it’s a brilliant
question and it raises other questions
like what is style when do you consider
yourself unique and us the bigness of
our time authenticity really exists a
wide range of issues that previous
generations view as matters of bird
social realm all faiths are becoming now
areas of choices choices that are all
leading to a sort of personal lifestyle
is fully expressed in that lifestyle and
nowaday with unlimited access to
information people are processing
sartorial information much more quicker
than before so this means that we can
assume that most people are sending the
right signals to the outside world and
that opens up for us a door to look
clearly a signifiers of unconstructive
identity it also opens up the door to
look at fashion as a catalyst for change
the executive matters like this for a
better recognition of signals that of
constructed identity that people are
sending in the outside world is to limit
yourself in your ways of observing work
with some strict parameters of time and
place is will really intensify your
field of view be professional for your
dare it and step into the role of a
profiler really reflect on what you’re
seeing and see it as a police
investigation choose what location stay
there
and absolutely important be there for a
certain amount of time maximize these
experience with real and active
encounters and also real engagements
that means that we have to step out of
your comfort zone
and step into the world of the other
without being judgmental but you need it
sort of carefree attitude be gentle with
segments of society are you really
curious about where do you like to set
up your observation post and do you have
a loop behind the facades as well are
you daring to look into the dark corners
as well it’s good to team up in such an
adventure so you can really discuss with
one another all the things you see and
notice in concern experiment and
identity but understanding the way dress
codes and behaviors are encoded we with
executives try to lead cultural objects
of daily life in such a fashion
that they become meaningful we zoom in
in the essential details of the person
to discover a big story normally you
look at you but quite awkwardly you look
at me now I’m the victim of your
investigation the rules of the game are
turned around so to say in general I
think I’m quite aware of all the signs
and symbols that I share with my style
but that’s not important
importance is can you this though a
concept out of this to for a better
understanding of my identity and is it
possible that you can place me in a
bigger social group by hunting down some
similarities you saw and recognized
before with other words can you read me
as if you could what if I told you
within the commodified a board style
what if my looks could be seen as just a
single copy of the transmitted fashion
image an image that I’ve copied with no
reasons and no ties to my personal life
or my surroundings at all would it then
be the real media field or am I just
acting out a state role perfectly
fitting those intense performative times
we are living in
maybe the distorted me you see is
actually more new than the real me whoa
so lose me when I was in my 20s in the
early 80s before the age of social media
and then viral videos the search for
your own style was less complicated it
was quite easy to distinguish yourself
from others by choosing your favorite
identity they were simply not that many
choices you are either this or you were
death or you were nothing
although in Baghdad and finding the
pieces for your loop you like to flaunt
was really really hard work signature
clothing artists what difficult to
science and the iconic pieces you really
wanted were very limited and very
site-specific therefore there was a lot
of do-it-yourself the sometimes long
travels to find the right subculture
appear all the time a to to customize
wheel gear was by many experience back
then as the initial accession to a
certain kind of subculture a simple
illustration of shortage back assorted
drama back then and we talking early
eighties eighties here if I wanted to
score a pair of black jeans and I really
wanted them I had to take the boat to
England from Rotterdam and then the
train to London and then the bus to East
London and then on a Sunday morning you
could find a pair of black jeans when
you were lucky
maybe together with a pair of Doc
Martens your favourites lay a t-shirt
was a t-shirt really bought at a
mesmerizing concept your granny looked
like all the grannies rangers raved and
punk-rock never dies but subculture
seemed to be over now since we’re living
in the so called narcissistic consumer
heaven in this world of Plenty you and
plenty possibilities you can become
everything you wish everything I do
everything i acquire every actions are
becoming signifiers of Who I am it seems
that there is no limit no it seems
there’s no reason to limit yourself
you can become editing in wish so the
pet station of consumer freedom is that
you can experiment with all kinds of
yours and create sort of new
multi-layered identity perfectly fitting
our grown English to present ourselves
more multi-layered in the pump and
offline worlds but either multi-phase
for old-school one-dimensional can we
still be alternative or are we all
dressed up as performers in our own
daily live show the explosion of online
fashion culture that favors bold forms
and appearance is even playing a more
distinctive role than ever
algorithms will predict your products
your wishes and your favorite groups
what is there to choose when everything
is already chosen for you are you really
the constructor of the so-called super
you when Amazon and Zara probably know
you better than you do or personalized
and privileged butters can become a
disadvantage in the search of new fresh
social group few points so that to our
encounters and our observational costs
move are we actually encountering
intriguing new constructed identities in
this time all the old-school
single-layer subcultural nonconformists
my personal motto is to embrace all
kinds of trans cultural gender age all
kinds of transitions are really like
them it really takes the young the
modern world then can be seen as a
washing machine box fest outcome
guarantees no tracks or traces from the
past
no dumbass no burners whoa new materials
new techniques and display and high
flexibility I think that those new
constructed identities are a new form of
authenticity but are we able to weed
those new dynamic stories right that is
the big question what comes out of the
washing machine can you really judge it
is clothing still the biggest signifier
of one social group is choosing your
identity becoming a privileged for those
with education and economic needs
are we really aware of our personal
bubble are we will be able to embrace a
bigger variety of viewpoints and
understand all current underlying themes
hence I’ll still be a tool for social
change your counter-attack and your
active voice in this global identity
conversation is needed more than ever
redefining realness in the context of
new social identities is becoming more
and more important because and that’s
the team was today reality can be in
drag in our new social perception well
faith is actually the new hyper real and
this blurring of facts and fiction is a
daily reality to deal with we are
definitely and
another time we can expect that the next
decades will be drastically different
than one we are in now technological
change is export of exponential and
therefore we will witness an
unprecedented and massive acceleration
on all kinds of social levels the
washing machine is spinning on top speed
the near future will therefore be most
more scary I think more damning more
challenging than ever and ever before
but the big burning question remains how
shall we dress for this occasion thank
you so much
[Applause]
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