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The True Rome? | National Geographic


Trastevere is one of Rome’s most ancient
neighborhoods founded during the reign
of Emperor Augustus its name means
literally across the Tiber but more than
a river separates the people of
Trastevere from the rest of the city
Trasolini have always been proud of
their origins believing themselves to be
the only true Romans for Romans of Rome
in the Middle Ages the neighborhood
became a center for working-class
fishermen and artisans even though the
Vatican owns a lot of property here and
even with the monasteries and convents
hidden behind high walls it still has
that spirit of a medieval port town
whether to enjoy home cooking get lost
in winding alleys or just escape the
chaos of central Rome visitors have
always come here in search of the
authentic Italy now in increasing
numbers the visitors are moving in
driving up housing prices and displacing
many old-time residents some people fear
that recent developments have changed
the neighborhood for the worse
Giancarlo bisso has been serving clients
at this cafe for 35 years his old
customers are disappearing and they’re
taking the spirit of the place along
with them as far as more than 70 years
ago in the old days people would buy
milk here and carry it home in 10
buckets women used to come down and
their nightgowns to have breakfast today
it has become a modern bar like the rest
but not everyone is so negative about
the change
Giovanni Amelie has been selling
newspapers on Piazza Santa Maria for the
past 18 years from his booth he has
witnessed the restoration of the church
the cleaning of the neighborhood and a
big increase in business I would say
crest ever day has changed for the
better before it was a lot more on stage
there was crime poverty and unruliness
today the type of community is
the neighborhood is safe but it still
keeps its characteristic many people say
it is it’s very charm that has led to
trust of a race transformation the glory
of Rome lies in its ability to retain
layer upon layer of history even as the
present creates an entirely new city
trust via Ray’s ancient ruins medieval
alleys Renaissance churches and baroque
palaces are all part of that timeless
process
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