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“FASHION is NOT Just a Business, it’s a PASSION!” – #MakingIt


I think it’s healthy for everyone to
lose a job as well as to gain a job a
very practical you know if I’m designing
something I’m saying okay but who’s
gonna wear this
where are they going in it it’s not
gonna work nobody’s gonna buy this looks
like a markdown rack to me get it out of
here doesn’t work out when I was working
with Linda furrow which is a sunglasses
brand that I was working for I was like
a sponge and you can take that
opportunity to learn so much about the
industry
what’s up elimination it’s seven my one
word is believe and I believe in you I
believe you have an amazing gift inside
you that I want to see exploded onto the
world I started the making it serious
you try to get really specific on
definitions different industries try to
learn from the best and get specific
tips tactics and execution on how to
have success in that field so today
we’re gonna learn from some of the most
successful and famous designers on how
to make it in the fashion industry enjoy
kicking us off at number one is trust
your instincts with Ralph Lauren when I
went to Bloomingdale’s the buyer said we
like your tithes Ralph but would you
make them narrower and would you we
don’t want to use your label we want to
use our own label but we’ll give you a
really good order now here I was no
business and hungry and I said to the
buyer I said my heart’s in my throat or
whatever the expression is I and I would
love to sell Bloomingdale’s they were
the hottest store and young hot store I
said but I can’t tell you I’m closing my
bag and I’m not gonna sell you six
months later they called me back Wow and
they said Ralph we can’t find your
tights anywhere and we want to buy them
and we want to put a rack in a rack of
ties amongst the other ties
and that was it
the breakthrough was they bought it the
breakthrough for me is that I’ve learned
to trust my instincts I learned to trust
my own sense but the normal thing to do
is say I’ll make it with me what you
wanted I mean that’s how that’s how the
world was you want to I want to sell the
other ties you know maybe I’ll have a
new fashion for you next year let me buy
it my philosophy was that I love these
times I made them they were not just a
business to me they were they were my
voice to myself
number two is accept failure with Anna
Wintour you eventually joined Harper’s
Bazaar us and in 1976 it was you were
fired and I find that extraordinary you
know they were very clear in that they
thought that I would never understand
the American market I remember I was the
editor on one shoot that was there I
think it was a French fashion shows and
I just decided that it would be
interesting to have dreadlocks on the
models and I think that that pushed them
further than they could they could bear
so that was that was that was it for me
but I you know I think it’s always part
of life to have some knocks as well as
some successes and take risks and you
know to learn so I think it’s healthy
for everyone to lose a job as well as to
gain a job number three is be practical
with Tom Ford
I’m very practical you know if I’m
designing something I’m saying okay but
who’s gonna wear this where are they
going in it it’s not gonna work nobody’s
gonna buy this looks like a markdown
rack to me get it out of here doesn’t
work out no I’m not pointing at you
because you’re sitting in front of me
I’m not saying you address that’s like a
markdown right but also after having
been in the business a long time I can
look at something say well markdown
that’s gonna be a markdown don’t even do
it don’t send it to the store I have
wonderful I just say middle-class taste
that’s not the right word and I don’t
like to use words like middle-class this
stupid word but I have mass tastes how
I think I have you know and what I mean
by that is it may be aspirational mouse
taste but if you put ten shoes down on a
table
I can almost it’s rarely that I will
fail I will say those three are gonna be
the top sellers that one will sell the
most and you know or if I pick the ones
that I like they will generally be the
ones that perform I it’s just you know
that’s part of your talent as a designer
is being able to know what people want
before they know
number four is be a sponge with Victoria
Beckham I say the best advice that I
could give anybody is to work for
somebody else work for another brand and
when I was working with rock and
Republic when I was working with Linda
furrow which is a sunglasses brand that
I was working for I was like a sponge
and you can take that opportunity to
learn so much about the industry and I
did that they were license deals that I
had back in the day and I worked with
Coty the fragrance company the fragrance
house as well and I learned so much and
then when I was in a position to bring
everything in-house and own everything
myself and create a team that would do
this with me I felt ready to do it so
though I didn’t really I didn’t go to
fashion school I was working for other
people and I learned an enormous amount
of time and an enormous amount in a very
short space of time
number five is be fearless with Vera
Wang
one of the things that I found extremely
fascinating about you is that you and
your career have consistently been a
risk-taker
in fact I think one of the biggest risks
you took was turning the traditional
white bridal gown into pink yellow green
even black what drove you to take such
risks well I will say I am fairly
fearless although it doesn’t come
without a price but creatively and when
you work in a certain John and I work in
ready to wear as well as Bridal but I
think we’re very celebrated obviously
for
dressed for the woman’s most important
day of her life so I have to say that
trying to keep that fresh trying to keep
that new trying to keep myself creative
and trying to envision Bridal as a whole
other form trying to visually brought us
a whole other form of self-expression
for not only myself as a designer but
for the bride I’ve taken big risks like
black dresses new dresses pink dresses
colors one of the ways I can for someone
who works in black and ready to wear
colors one of the ways that I’ve really
been able to distinguish our bridal
collections through the years but it’s
way more important than that to me for
in reality I’m really a designer who
does bridal gowns I’m not a bridal
designer and because of that I’ve been
able to be I’ve been able to have real
freedom and what I do and I don’t feel
any parameters in which I have to define
myself within number six is trying to
improve with Karl Lagerfeld
I’m never pleased with myself I always
think I could do better I could make an
effort and lazy I mean it’s ridiculous I
know but I had the healthy attitude and
I don’t think I should change my state
of mind because when people start to
think about that past their art and all
this is very dangerous I do a kind of
apply to art don’t be too pretentious
and the good thing is that I get never
liked the old holding stone stone and
such any satisfaction I was what I’m
doing I always think it could improve I
could do better and I could do more it’s
ridiculous but it’s very healthy I see
number 7 is having honest intention with
Russell Simmons an honest intention is
always at the core no usually at the
core of a worldly business success I
mean Esther I want to give people
something they need hopefully you’re
giving something to need that you
approve of you know if you’re vegan and
don’t have a steak house you know sound
like that
but it’s a idea of going to work and
giving people something that you believe
in and and and make it an honest
intention also that that you give
without you know so much it’s not about
the expectation of receiving so much it
there’s faith in this idea that if you
put your energy into something it will
give you a return but it there’s
something greater about loving something
enough to just want to share it and I
think that that’s a major motivation and
we all should have one happiness and
success number eight is take risks with
Tory Burch opening a store on your first
day that you launch a brand is a huge
risk why did you choose well I was
warned against it over and over again
and and I really felt that number one we
found a spot in New York that was
budget-friendly and it was basically it
was it was very little money and we felt
or I felt that I wanted to create an
environment and retail at the time was
minimalist it was very stark and clean
and we thought it’d be interesting to be
inspired by David I was very inspired by
David Hicks in the beginning and this
idea of coming into a welcoming and warm
environment having couches for
boyfriends or husbands or children and
and making it accessible and friendly
but also interesting and so it was a way
to show who we were immediately when you
walked in and it was everything we
launched with I think twelve categories
which also people thought was ridiculous
and it was a lot of going to China I set
up an office from the beginning and
convincing factories to work with us and
taking a shot on us because making
twenty and fifty pieces of something was
essentially losing money for them so
when when we ended up getting that done
this store was the best place to really
house that and show it and speak to our
customer number nine is solve a problem
with Iman I started him on cosmetics in
1994 so I when I was creating Iman
cosmetics
I wanted to have a new language if I
didn’t want the old mentality that the
whole world is black and white the world
is not black and white there’s a lot of
different shades in this game and so I
wanted to create a new product a new
language for people to address the
beauties and in 1994 when I created
email Cosmetics it was the first company
there was truly multicultural and you
know and truly global in terms of all
the skin changes that we were covering
we started first in America and Canada
where now we are familiar with also in
Europe in London in front and in England
in France in Italy and number 10 the
last one before the bonus Clips is
create a feeling with Sophia Amoruso
so Nancy yo is very much a feeling it’s
a feeling you know to sell things online
successfully you have to create a
feeling so you know when I started
selling on eBay you know the department
stores that were online the people who
are treating their online stores is just
another door and we’re dumping stuff on
a model and cutting their head off and
still are are missing the point like the
opportunity that we have for
storytelling online and there’s so much
context that you can give a product
within a photograph in with a
description that you know I talked about
exalting the details so I mean I
literally turned I guess I like to say
and I it’s not really but I turned
into gold I bought five dollar
things that weren’t designer vintage
that were just vintage that were stylish
that I put in the context of modern
fashion and made something desirable and
I started the auctions at $9.99 nasty
yells not successful because I marked my
prices up and tricked people into buying
stuff that they were eventually
dissatisfied with they fought over it
the prices went crazy that’s how I built
a cash positive you know cashflow
positive business because I told a story
through the photos so it was you know
the girl is always going somewhere she’s
she has intent so it’s not just a model
we have to it’s so much work and it’s
not cheap to find girls who look like
they’re a person but to tell a story
with that photo and for someone to who
can’t try that product on to look at it
and say oh my god I can see myself
wearing that or it’s why people are
interested in blogs and fashion bloggers
it’s I mean it’s the celebrity if it’s
the paparazzi culture at the same time
like people understand things that are
kind of fed to them in a way that is
like predigested I guess a little bit
for lack of a better word which I always
tried to do with the photography by
putting in the context of like a real
girl which today is very much what we
continue to try to do and has become
much more common
now I have some special bonus clips for
you guys but before getting to that my
question of the day is I’m curious how
do you create a feeling with your brand
with your fashion or what is the feeling
that you would like to create leave it
down the console oh I’m really curious
to hear from you thank you guys so much
for watching I believe in you I hope you
continue to believe in yourself and
whatever you’re on where it is much love
I’ll see you soon and enjoy the bonuses
and I think everyone should be an intern
by the way I think this is a problem
today as people come out of school and
they think they should immediately be a
star and in today’s world of course you
can make a sex video and you can become
a star you know if you’re clever you can
get yourself a you know out in the world
through social media and you can become
a star but I think everyone should be an
intern you should sweep floors you
should pick up pins if you’re interested
in being an architect you know you
should run errands you should you should
do all those things because you learn so
much when I initially started up the
brand I didn’t put too much pressure on
myself I didn’t go into this to prove
anything to anybody other than than
myself I was very focused I didn’t try
and do everything at once you know
her for quite a few seasons I stopped to
just perfecting the dress I didn’t want
to run before I could walk
it’s very important to be focused and do
do what I was doing very very well and
move on and do more when my team was in
the position to do that so I think that
it’s about keeping things focused and
not trying to do too much when I first
started I used to do sketches where I
could say well here’s a low neck here’s
a high neck here’s a version that with a
bigger skirt I mean it was the only way
I could get out what was in my brain but
over the last 25 years I’ve really come
to want to work myself with the fabric
so being here is now integral to my
design process there’s no other place or
way I can do it anymore
it sounds very extravagant in this day
and age but we work right on the body
and we have a constant fit model because
I have to see the clothing on the body
very interesting to a rattlin I don’t
want to tear this one apart
another right that goes away i draped on
her i correct it
I make them cut it we do pages of notes
I want a space I could in a way retire
from the intensity of that room which is
extremely intense so this room is my
office if that’s the right word no one
comes in here it’s really for me my
Haven slash diskgo flash Haas mental
hospital the most important work ever if
you had to think of one word that’s most
important to you or that sums you Apple
that would be like a little beacon table
Ignatian if you want to know what the
most important one word is for Tony
Robbins Gary Vaynerchuk Oprah Winfrey
will.i.am and Howard Schultz I have a
very special secret video for you check
the description for details
[Music]
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