after so many hours of use our trash can
metal foundry is falling apart so in
today’s video we’ll be making it upgrade
using a new bucket and some fire brick
this is a type of brick made from a
silica that is designed to withstand a
lot of heat this is very similar to the
type of brick that is found inside kilns
designed for firing ceramics and similar
things and we want to try and use this
kind of brick to line and protect the
inside of our foundry here’s the basic
idea we’ll draw up some patterns for the
inside of this foundry and cut our fire
bricks into shape so they fit nicely
around the edges we will use Kol to fill
in any gaps and to line the lid the Kol
will be attached to the lid using some
stainless steel hardware as with our
previous designs we’ll have two holes in
the sides and two holes in the top now I
chose this bucket because it’s a great
size that seems like it has a pretty
solid handle on it and it’s got a lid
all of those things are necessary
however you can see that this bucket is
black and that’s not the normal color of
the steel this has been powder coated
that powder coating will burn off
probably the first time we fired up so
just to get ahead of things we’re gonna
take a torch and burn it all off right
now it’s not gonna look as pretty
it’s taking a while to burn all the
paint off using our small propane torch
so what I’m gonna try is to drill the
two holes that I know I need inside is
my bucket hookup the large propane tank
and then just let it burn with no
insulation in there at all that should
heat the whole thing up really nicely
and burn off all the excess paint and
then we can continue on from there
I probably need to change the height of
where our burners enter our furnace in
the past we had a pretty thin bottom on
here and then this time I think we’re
gonna use a half of one of these bricks
which is going to be about an inch and a
half thick so that’s gonna stick up a
little bit more than what we’ve used
before so I haven’t marked where it was
[Music]
[Applause]
well I’m cutting holes in metal might as
well cut the holes in the lid as well it
is probably inevitable that at some
point this handle is going to burn up
but I might be able to prolong that just
this is going so much faster I think we
are just a bell they’re beautiful
well I mean it’s ugly but how well it
worked was beautiful now I just need to
give this a few minutes to cool off
while our metal bucket is cooling down
and before we cleaned it off to do the
next steps we’re gonna take some of
these fire bricks and cut them down we
want the bottom to be about half of one
brick and the sides we’re gonna try and
cut these bricks into thirds so we have
about 1 inch slices all right I suspect
this is going to make more dust than
pretty much anything I’ve ever done
before so I’m going to do outside and
again be wearing a dust mask this fire
brick is really fragile stuff it’s so
full of air that it doesn’t have nearly
the structural strength of regular
bricks but one advantage of that is that
you can cut it really easily with just a
handsaw just because you can cut it
easily doesn’t mean you can cut it well
so I have to be really careful to cut in
nice straight lines I’m gonna end up
with two pieces that are wildly
different thicknesses
[Music]
not bad it’s not a hundred percent
perfect but that is pretty close to a
nice flat base I like it now we’ve got
to cut two more bricks into thirds this
is a million times better in the shade
now in the past when we’ve made these
foundries we have used a galvanized
steel bucket not one of these black
powder-coated ones and I was trying to
switch to something that was steel but
not galvanized steel honestly I’m not
sure if this worked or not the label
just said that it was steel it didn’t
specify whether it was or was not the
main reason is that galvanized steel
puts off fumes that you really don’t
want to breathe in when it gets heated
up too much I always try and avoid the
fumes when I’ve got my foundry running I
just like to stand upwind of it and not
be breathing in whatever it’s putting
off so I don’t think that really affects
one way or the other too badly I just
thought I would try and if I can get an
on galvanized steel one I’d use that
we’re going to be using these two bricks
which is one brick cut in half as the
very base for our foundry however as you
can see they are larger than the base at
the moment so we need to trim them down
so to cut them down to just the right
size we’re going to measure the size of
the bottom of our bucket trace a circle
out that same size place our bricks on
top of that and line up where we need to
make some cuts so they fit nicely into
the bottom of the bucket excellent let’s
go trim those corners
[Music]
all right let’s see if this fits or if
we need to do a little bit more trimming
bits that should give us a nice solid
base that will do a great job insulating
heat and not go anywhere this firebrick
stuff should withstand quite a bit of
stress testing now we do have a slightly
slant walled bucket so measuring the
diameter of the height above the base
gives us approximately 10 inches because
now what we need to do is take our six
1-inch pieces of brick and cut those so
that they will all fit down inside our
bucket providing some walls you can see
the idea of how we want these bricks to
go but they don’t fit super nicely right
now because they’re just a little bit
too wide in places so we got to figure
out just how much to trim those to make
them all fitting nicely together
shouldn’t take too much trimming I don’t
think to get those measurements instead
of just cutting up actually he’s a brick
we’re gonna trace out pieces of this
foam with the same dimensions of one end
of the brick and lay them out on a
circle that should let us see how much
they overlap and what needs to be
trimmed
[Music]
by lining these six pieces up around in
a circle we can see how much overlap we
have and that gives us a pretty good
idea of what we need to cut
[Music]
you can see that by trimming off the
corners of all six pieces we should get
something that fits nicely together
and backs right up against the very
edges of the bucket so what we need to
do is take down these long corners to
match up with what we’ve cut out of the
foam here and to do that I’m going to
try using a belt sander and boy I
thought
sawing these was gonna be dusty I think
the belt sander is gonna put that to
shame we’ll see how well it does
they may have gotten trimmed a little
bit more than necessary but they do all
fit together and I think we can make
this work we need to be able to pass our
torch heads through two of the brick
panels one on each side
let’s cut those holes I think it’s time
to add in our kale wall we’re going to
use that to fill in some of the gaps
around the sides and hold the fire
bricks just where we want them and as I
[Music]
in the past we’ve had RKO wool stuck to
the lid using just friction and that
works pretty well for a while as the
cable degrades it starts to get a little
bit smaller and lose some of its
structural integrity at which point it
starts just falling out so as an upgrade
we’re going to do something like we did
with our giant metal foundry and we’re
gonna use some stainless steel hardware
to hold that all in place now I have an
idea for how I want this to go and I’m
actually going to install these bolts
with the head down inside of the lid and
my goal is to sort of make a couple of
little feet that I can have sticking
down on the bottom so when I remove the
lid off of the foundry I can just set it
down and the bolts will just hold it off
of the ground
[Music]
hey that’s standing alright let’s see if
this works now those might be long
enough at this point that they hit the
fire brick inside but if they are we can
just adjust them for the shorter well I
think that works out nicely fits within
the KO wall barrier and does not quite
reach the brick so we’ve now got a lid
it goes down on the ko will should be
able to stay on even after it gets old
and starts losing some of its integrity
and when we want to remove our lid we
can just set it down and it stays off of
the ground the K wall doesn’t hit the
dirt I don’t have to worry about
flipping it over and being quite so
careful with it I can just set it down
I’m gonna hold itself up we’ve got the
bricks lining the bottom in the sides
we’ve got Kol holding the bricks right
where we want and insulating the top I
think all that we need now is to test
this bad boy let’s get some propane
I like that feature of course the real
test is going to be seeing how well this
holds up over time I’m pretty sure that
the bricks are gonna do a better job
than just kayo wolf of staying intact
and not starting to fall to pieces
stay tuned for future videos to see how
it holds up under stress guys it’s not
over yet there’s more for you to see if
you missed our last video I need to see
it again the box up at the top will take
you right there the box at the bottom
will show you what YouTube thinks you
need to be watching now and there’s balm
in the middle will subscribe you to the
channel so you never miss a video don’t
forget to ring that bell and you’ll see in the next one dr. Ben
metal foundry is falling apart so in
today’s video we’ll be making it upgrade
using a new bucket and some fire brick
this is a type of brick made from a
silica that is designed to withstand a
lot of heat this is very similar to the
type of brick that is found inside kilns
designed for firing ceramics and similar
things and we want to try and use this
kind of brick to line and protect the
inside of our foundry here’s the basic
idea we’ll draw up some patterns for the
inside of this foundry and cut our fire
bricks into shape so they fit nicely
around the edges we will use Kol to fill
in any gaps and to line the lid the Kol
will be attached to the lid using some
stainless steel hardware as with our
previous designs we’ll have two holes in
the sides and two holes in the top now I
chose this bucket because it’s a great
size that seems like it has a pretty
solid handle on it and it’s got a lid
all of those things are necessary
however you can see that this bucket is
black and that’s not the normal color of
the steel this has been powder coated
that powder coating will burn off
probably the first time we fired up so
just to get ahead of things we’re gonna
take a torch and burn it all off right
now it’s not gonna look as pretty
it’s taking a while to burn all the
paint off using our small propane torch
so what I’m gonna try is to drill the
two holes that I know I need inside is
my bucket hookup the large propane tank
and then just let it burn with no
insulation in there at all that should
heat the whole thing up really nicely
and burn off all the excess paint and
then we can continue on from there
I probably need to change the height of
where our burners enter our furnace in
the past we had a pretty thin bottom on
here and then this time I think we’re
gonna use a half of one of these bricks
which is going to be about an inch and a
half thick so that’s gonna stick up a
little bit more than what we’ve used
before so I haven’t marked where it was
[Music]
[Applause]
well I’m cutting holes in metal might as
well cut the holes in the lid as well it
is probably inevitable that at some
point this handle is going to burn up
but I might be able to prolong that just
this is going so much faster I think we
are just a bell they’re beautiful
well I mean it’s ugly but how well it
worked was beautiful now I just need to
give this a few minutes to cool off
while our metal bucket is cooling down
and before we cleaned it off to do the
next steps we’re gonna take some of
these fire bricks and cut them down we
want the bottom to be about half of one
brick and the sides we’re gonna try and
cut these bricks into thirds so we have
about 1 inch slices all right I suspect
this is going to make more dust than
pretty much anything I’ve ever done
before so I’m going to do outside and
again be wearing a dust mask this fire
brick is really fragile stuff it’s so
full of air that it doesn’t have nearly
the structural strength of regular
bricks but one advantage of that is that
you can cut it really easily with just a
handsaw just because you can cut it
easily doesn’t mean you can cut it well
so I have to be really careful to cut in
nice straight lines I’m gonna end up
with two pieces that are wildly
different thicknesses
[Music]
not bad it’s not a hundred percent
perfect but that is pretty close to a
nice flat base I like it now we’ve got
to cut two more bricks into thirds this
is a million times better in the shade
now in the past when we’ve made these
foundries we have used a galvanized
steel bucket not one of these black
powder-coated ones and I was trying to
switch to something that was steel but
not galvanized steel honestly I’m not
sure if this worked or not the label
just said that it was steel it didn’t
specify whether it was or was not the
main reason is that galvanized steel
puts off fumes that you really don’t
want to breathe in when it gets heated
up too much I always try and avoid the
fumes when I’ve got my foundry running I
just like to stand upwind of it and not
be breathing in whatever it’s putting
off so I don’t think that really affects
one way or the other too badly I just
thought I would try and if I can get an
on galvanized steel one I’d use that
we’re going to be using these two bricks
which is one brick cut in half as the
very base for our foundry however as you
can see they are larger than the base at
the moment so we need to trim them down
so to cut them down to just the right
size we’re going to measure the size of
the bottom of our bucket trace a circle
out that same size place our bricks on
top of that and line up where we need to
make some cuts so they fit nicely into
the bottom of the bucket excellent let’s
go trim those corners
[Music]
all right let’s see if this fits or if
we need to do a little bit more trimming
bits that should give us a nice solid
base that will do a great job insulating
heat and not go anywhere this firebrick
stuff should withstand quite a bit of
stress testing now we do have a slightly
slant walled bucket so measuring the
diameter of the height above the base
gives us approximately 10 inches because
now what we need to do is take our six
1-inch pieces of brick and cut those so
that they will all fit down inside our
bucket providing some walls you can see
the idea of how we want these bricks to
go but they don’t fit super nicely right
now because they’re just a little bit
too wide in places so we got to figure
out just how much to trim those to make
them all fitting nicely together
shouldn’t take too much trimming I don’t
think to get those measurements instead
of just cutting up actually he’s a brick
we’re gonna trace out pieces of this
foam with the same dimensions of one end
of the brick and lay them out on a
circle that should let us see how much
they overlap and what needs to be
trimmed
[Music]
by lining these six pieces up around in
a circle we can see how much overlap we
have and that gives us a pretty good
idea of what we need to cut
[Music]
you can see that by trimming off the
corners of all six pieces we should get
something that fits nicely together
and backs right up against the very
edges of the bucket so what we need to
do is take down these long corners to
match up with what we’ve cut out of the
foam here and to do that I’m going to
try using a belt sander and boy I
thought
sawing these was gonna be dusty I think
the belt sander is gonna put that to
shame we’ll see how well it does
they may have gotten trimmed a little
bit more than necessary but they do all
fit together and I think we can make
this work we need to be able to pass our
torch heads through two of the brick
panels one on each side
let’s cut those holes I think it’s time
to add in our kale wall we’re going to
use that to fill in some of the gaps
around the sides and hold the fire
bricks just where we want them and as I
[Music]
in the past we’ve had RKO wool stuck to
the lid using just friction and that
works pretty well for a while as the
cable degrades it starts to get a little
bit smaller and lose some of its
structural integrity at which point it
starts just falling out so as an upgrade
we’re going to do something like we did
with our giant metal foundry and we’re
gonna use some stainless steel hardware
to hold that all in place now I have an
idea for how I want this to go and I’m
actually going to install these bolts
with the head down inside of the lid and
my goal is to sort of make a couple of
little feet that I can have sticking
down on the bottom so when I remove the
lid off of the foundry I can just set it
down and the bolts will just hold it off
of the ground
[Music]
hey that’s standing alright let’s see if
this works now those might be long
enough at this point that they hit the
fire brick inside but if they are we can
just adjust them for the shorter well I
think that works out nicely fits within
the KO wall barrier and does not quite
reach the brick so we’ve now got a lid
it goes down on the ko will should be
able to stay on even after it gets old
and starts losing some of its integrity
and when we want to remove our lid we
can just set it down and it stays off of
the ground the K wall doesn’t hit the
dirt I don’t have to worry about
flipping it over and being quite so
careful with it I can just set it down
I’m gonna hold itself up we’ve got the
bricks lining the bottom in the sides
we’ve got Kol holding the bricks right
where we want and insulating the top I
think all that we need now is to test
this bad boy let’s get some propane
I like that feature of course the real
test is going to be seeing how well this
holds up over time I’m pretty sure that
the bricks are gonna do a better job
than just kayo wolf of staying intact
and not starting to fall to pieces
stay tuned for future videos to see how
it holds up under stress guys it’s not
over yet there’s more for you to see if
you missed our last video I need to see
it again the box up at the top will take
you right there the box at the bottom
will show you what YouTube thinks you
need to be watching now and there’s balm
in the middle will subscribe you to the
channel so you never miss a video don’t
forget to ring that bell and you’ll see in the next one dr. Ben
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