for this project I’m going to show you
how to make a hot wire styro-slicer’
that cut styrofoam shapes with precision
and control it’ll produce
professional-looking 3d props for
cosplay or metal casting as well as make
foam fighter jets that actually fly
across the room
the styro-slicer’ has adjustable power
settings cuts at any angle you need and
the best part is the whole system fits
together economically for easy and
clutter-free storage let’s start this
project with a simple experiment using a
six volt lantern battery and a thin
piece of hanger wire if we wrap the ends
of the wire around the battery terminals
you can see it gets incredibly hot in
just an instant
in fact it’s so hot that if we try
touching it to a small piece of
styrofoam it slices right through like a
hot knife on butter that’s the basic
concept of how our hot wire foam cutter
is going to work so let’s get started
building the foam factory with some 3/4
inch PVC tubing and a few connectors
these pieces will create the frame for
our multifunctional wire saw and you
should be able to find all them easily
at any home improvement store in the
sprinkler I’ll cut 2 pieces of tubing 11
inches long and one other piece 12
inches and the only fittings you’re
going to need are two 90 degree elbows
and to slip gaps now if you’re planning
to customize the colors on your
styro-slicer’ go ahead and paint the
elbows and slip caps now because it’ll
save you a step later on the next things
we’ll be needing are some number 8 flat
washers and two number 8i bolts around
one and five eighths of an inch long
place one of the washers on the bolt
then screw them both firmly into the
center of the cap I pre-drilled my hole
using a 5/32 inch drill bit and it
really couldn’t have worked out better
now continue screwing the eye bolts into
the cap until it’s tight against the
outside washer then do the exact same
thing with the other one the next step
is to make a hole in the center of the
12 inch pipe so mark the tubing six
inches from the end and begin drilling
we only want a hole in one side though
so when the drill bit punches through
the top it’s time to stop I drilled my
hole 3/8 of an inch wide but you can
really make yours any size you want as
long as you can get an electric cord to
fit through it
and speaking of cords we’re going to
need one of those next all we’re really
after here is the cord itself so go
ahead and chop off whatever’s on the
ends then separate the two wires by
carefully pulling them apart I split my
cord into strands about two feet long
which is actually a bit more than we
need but it gives us a little wiggle
room for when we attach it in just a
second
next we’ll need to expose the bare
copper wire inside so use wire strippers
to remove about
into the plastic coating from the ends
then twist the strands tightly together
and bend it over so you can twist it
together at the bottom and form a little
metal loop carefully push the split
wires through the hole in the tubing and
continue working them in until a wire
snake around the corners and pop out the
other ends now if you can figure out how
to tie a knot on the inside the cable
won’t be able to pull back out
accidentally and it’ll prevent the wires
from splitting down any further so tie
it off if you can figure out how to do
it otherwise don’t worry too much about
it all that’s left to do now is push the
individual wires through the two
remaining tubes and secure them to the
end caps add a washer to the bolt inside
the cap then slip the wire loop over the
end of the bolt and push it down to the
bottom add one more washer and a hex nut
then use something like a pair of needle
nose pliers help tighten the whole
assembly together now simply push the
end caps on the tubes as tightly as you
can and just like that the frame for
your wire saw is finished you could use
it just like this but if you want to
kick it up a notch try using a bit of
duct tape to add a splash of color the
only thing our hot wire foam cutter
needs now is the hot wire and for that
I’ll be using a one and a half inch
extension spring and some stainless
steel hanger wire which you’ll find in
the hardware aisle I got a nine foot
roll for a little under $4.00 which is
way more than I’ll ever need and should
last forever measure the wire so it’s a
couple inches longer than the frame then
go ahead and snip it to size and now
here’s the cool part if you look closely
you’ll notice the hanger wire is made of
seven smaller wires twisted together so
if we unravel them we end up with seven
super thin stainless steel cutting wires
and plenty more where they came from at
this point go ahead and get the one and
a half inch extension spring ready by
connecting it to one of the eye bolts
the easiest way to connect it is by
pulling the hook open with a pair of
pliers then looping it inside the bolt
and letting go fasten one end of the
steel wire to the bottom eye bolt by
folding the wire back over itself and
twisting it around a few times now loop
the other end through the bottom of the
spring but before you twist it off pull
the wire firmly and stretch it out first
this will spring load the wire with
tension which is really important for
keeping it tight when it expands and
contracts rapidly with that final step
the wire cutter is done except you might
have noticed the wires still a bit wavy
simply take a screw or the handle of a
spoon and slide it back and forth a few
times to make the ripples disappear now
let’s do a quick and simple test to make
sure everything got connected properly
by touching the ends of
wires to the terminals of the lantern
battery if you did it right and your
connections are solid the wire will heat
up and sliced through styrofoam without
any trouble at all okay now that we’ve
got a wire cutting blade let’s go ahead
and build the foam cutting factory I
designed to go with it the first thing
you’re going to need is half-inch
medium-density fiberboard cut 18 inches
square we’ll also need an 8-foot 2×4
which you can get for about $2 I’m using
a chop saw to make quick and clean cuts
but you can use whatever tools work best
for you but in any case you’ll need to
cut the first piece eighteen inches long
then a 15 inch piece for the side
another 15 inch piece for the bottom
followed by an 11 and a half inch piece
for the other side a 5 inch block fills
the gap above that followed by a three
and a half inch block on the bottom left
then another three and a half inch block
that’ll go inside on the bottom ride a
little later on
now that our 2×4 is cut mark a 10 inch
line down the center of the MDF square
use something like a chop saw to follow
the line from the center of the marking
right out the side you’ll see what this
groove is for a little later on alright
it’s time to secure the blocks together
and for that I’m using 8 three-inch wood
screws in an eighth inch drill bit start
by lining all the blocks in position on
the bottom of the board then use the 8
inch bit to drill pilot holes in the
wood this way the wood won’t crack when
you screw it together the blocks go
together in three different segments and
you should be able to figure out how to
attach them by studying how I did mine
before we go any further it’s a good
idea to stop and hack a square hole out
of the 15 inch sidewall to accommodate
the dimmer switch we’ll be adding in
just a minute
I used a 3/8 inch bit to drill holes in
the corners then connect the dots with a
jig saw to cut the sides and pop the
block out if you did it right your hole
will be on the left side of the base
when the 18 inch board is facing forward
okay let’s move on to securing the work
surface next we’ll need to drill pilot
holes through the MDF like we did for
the base frame and it’s a good idea to
invest in a countersink bit so you can
get the heads of the screws to drop
below the surface I use 10 1 and 1/2
inch wood screws to hold the board to
the two-by-fours and 2/3 inch wood
screws in the upper right area to secure
the three and a half inch reinforcing
block to the underside of the table
these are the measurements I used and
it’s important you take time to measure
in fasteners the same way because it’s
all part of a master plan that’ll come
too
later on now just for fun I thought it
would be a good idea to use my
flush-mount router station to quickly
clean up the edges a bit by rounding
them out for just a little extra effort
you can see what an amazing difference
it makes and all I used was a half inch
rounding bit if you want to see how I
made this router station look for how to
build it in another project video
alright let’s make sure all the wood
pieces fit together snugly on the
underside then double check the base
support assembly didn’t get screwed on
that’s important we still have one thing
left to do with the base of board and
that’s to drill a 3/8 inch hole directly
in the center and 5 inches from the
bottom now just for looks I decided to
spray-paint mine black so it would match
my wire saw better but however you color
yours is completely up to you the next
step in assembling our foam cutting
Factory is attaching the arm assembly to
the support base stand the saw upright
so it looks like the letter C and Center
it in the middle of the board now if you
push a pen through the hole in the back
and Mark the tubing you can use your 3/8
inch drill bit to carefully cut a
matching hole right through the tube
make sure you don’t cut the wires inside
and put something like a scrap piece of
wood underneath so you don’t scratch up
your table when the drill finally
punches through let’s fasten the two
parts together next using a 3/8 inch by
three and a half inch hex bolt two 5/16
inch cut washers a 3/8 inch wing nut and
two 5/16 inch tank bolt washers which
you’ll find in the plumbing section the
Bolton one washer go on the forward side
of the tubing while the two tank washers
go on the back and after inserting the
bolt all the way through the hole in the
support stand add one more washer and a
wingnut to clamp the system together
doing that simply needs to be screwed on
hand tight with that final addition
you’ve just completed a standalone
cutting assembly that looks awesome and
has a lot of really cool features the
cutting arm is designed to pivot on the
bolts you can adjust the angle of the
blade any way you need it if that’s not
enough you can release the wing nut and
slide the whole assembly out to cut
larger blocks free handed now to bring
our styro-slicer’ to life we just need a
way to safely electrify it and control
the power so let’s finish up with the
electrical system next I went to the
hardware store and got a 600 watt dimmer
switch that you can turn on or off just
by pushing in we’re also going to need a
12 volt power transformer a 10
fuse and another six foot length of cord
now if you have trouble finding a
transformer or simply don’t want to
shell out for one you’ll probably be
able to salvage one for free by hacking
open an old stereo and pulling one off
the power supply that’s what I did for
my first prototype and it works just as
well the dimmer switch goes in position
from the outside and gets secured into
place with two one inch wood screws
you’ll need a cover plate as well to
make it look nice and what that screwed
on replace the knob then flip the whole
workstation over I decided to install my
transformer about halfway down the side
and use two more one inch screws to
secure it as tightly against the top as
I could get it and it helps if you
position the side with the three wires
facing down the 10 out fuse isn’t really
necessary but it’s good practice to have
in place just in case of a short so make
sure it’s actually got a fuse inside
then go ahead and connect everything
together using the small wire nuts that
came with the dimmer switch now to save
time I went ahead and just wired
everything together and after you do the
same it should look something like this
you can see the main power cord comes in
from the outlet and connects to the 10
amp fuse first which then connects to
the black wire on the dimmer switch next
the red wire coming out of the dimmer
switch connects to the black cord on the
primary side of the transformer and the
other black cord connects to the wire
running back to the outlet now on the
secondary side of the transformer you
might have noticed two yellow wires and
one black one the two yellow wires
supply 12 volts and the black wires
Center tap for half power
this means that connecting them to a
three-position switch will give us the
option to cycle the system between zero
volts six volts and 12 volts on demand
now it doesn’t really matter which
yellow wire you connect to the switch as
long as it’s soldered to one side with
the black wire soldered to the other the
remaining yellow wire needs to be
connected to the cord running to the hot
wire assembly and the return wire
connects back to the middle of the three
position switch it sounds complicated
but it’s really not that bad once you
get into it now the two power cords are
designed to feed out the back so they
don’t get in the way one cord is for the
supply power that gets plugged into any
regular outlet and the other cord runs
the regulated power to the cutter
assembly at this point the styro-slicer’
is done and ready to use as soon as you
are simply push the cutting arm into
place with the wire in the center of the
work surface then flip the red switch to
the six bolt setting which I call normal
power push the dimmer switch on then
gently crank up the
power and you’re in business if
everything is working the way it should
your wire will instantly heat up and you
can start slicing through styrofoam
right away making some of the smoothest
and cleanest cuts you can imagine for
one final touch I added a couple 1 inch
screws to the inside of the base so we
can store the rest of the hanger wire
and secure to latch on the upper side of
the support stand so the whole system
locks together for quick and easy
storage by the way there’s also a backup
battery cable in there that’ll connect
the system to solar or battery power
which makes the whole system portable
and off the grid well now you know how
to rise up and become a master styrofoam
maker by building yourself a homemade
styro-slicer’ it gives you precision
control for cutting custom props like a
mini master sword or slicing out
something more intricate like a squadron
of 3d fighter jets look for how to make
these in another video well that’s it
for now if you like this project perhaps
you’ll like some of my others check them
out at the king of random calm hey guys
thanks for watching to the end
I love the styro-slicer’ and if you
build one yourself I’m confident you’re
gonna love yours as well this project
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them know you came from my video and
that helps a lot thanks again for
supporting and sharing my projects and
I’ll see you in the next project video
talk to you then
[Music]
how to make a hot wire styro-slicer’
that cut styrofoam shapes with precision
and control it’ll produce
professional-looking 3d props for
cosplay or metal casting as well as make
foam fighter jets that actually fly
across the room
the styro-slicer’ has adjustable power
settings cuts at any angle you need and
the best part is the whole system fits
together economically for easy and
clutter-free storage let’s start this
project with a simple experiment using a
six volt lantern battery and a thin
piece of hanger wire if we wrap the ends
of the wire around the battery terminals
you can see it gets incredibly hot in
just an instant
in fact it’s so hot that if we try
touching it to a small piece of
styrofoam it slices right through like a
hot knife on butter that’s the basic
concept of how our hot wire foam cutter
is going to work so let’s get started
building the foam factory with some 3/4
inch PVC tubing and a few connectors
these pieces will create the frame for
our multifunctional wire saw and you
should be able to find all them easily
at any home improvement store in the
sprinkler I’ll cut 2 pieces of tubing 11
inches long and one other piece 12
inches and the only fittings you’re
going to need are two 90 degree elbows
and to slip gaps now if you’re planning
to customize the colors on your
styro-slicer’ go ahead and paint the
elbows and slip caps now because it’ll
save you a step later on the next things
we’ll be needing are some number 8 flat
washers and two number 8i bolts around
one and five eighths of an inch long
place one of the washers on the bolt
then screw them both firmly into the
center of the cap I pre-drilled my hole
using a 5/32 inch drill bit and it
really couldn’t have worked out better
now continue screwing the eye bolts into
the cap until it’s tight against the
outside washer then do the exact same
thing with the other one the next step
is to make a hole in the center of the
12 inch pipe so mark the tubing six
inches from the end and begin drilling
we only want a hole in one side though
so when the drill bit punches through
the top it’s time to stop I drilled my
hole 3/8 of an inch wide but you can
really make yours any size you want as
long as you can get an electric cord to
fit through it
and speaking of cords we’re going to
need one of those next all we’re really
after here is the cord itself so go
ahead and chop off whatever’s on the
ends then separate the two wires by
carefully pulling them apart I split my
cord into strands about two feet long
which is actually a bit more than we
need but it gives us a little wiggle
room for when we attach it in just a
second
next we’ll need to expose the bare
copper wire inside so use wire strippers
to remove about
into the plastic coating from the ends
then twist the strands tightly together
and bend it over so you can twist it
together at the bottom and form a little
metal loop carefully push the split
wires through the hole in the tubing and
continue working them in until a wire
snake around the corners and pop out the
other ends now if you can figure out how
to tie a knot on the inside the cable
won’t be able to pull back out
accidentally and it’ll prevent the wires
from splitting down any further so tie
it off if you can figure out how to do
it otherwise don’t worry too much about
it all that’s left to do now is push the
individual wires through the two
remaining tubes and secure them to the
end caps add a washer to the bolt inside
the cap then slip the wire loop over the
end of the bolt and push it down to the
bottom add one more washer and a hex nut
then use something like a pair of needle
nose pliers help tighten the whole
assembly together now simply push the
end caps on the tubes as tightly as you
can and just like that the frame for
your wire saw is finished you could use
it just like this but if you want to
kick it up a notch try using a bit of
duct tape to add a splash of color the
only thing our hot wire foam cutter
needs now is the hot wire and for that
I’ll be using a one and a half inch
extension spring and some stainless
steel hanger wire which you’ll find in
the hardware aisle I got a nine foot
roll for a little under $4.00 which is
way more than I’ll ever need and should
last forever measure the wire so it’s a
couple inches longer than the frame then
go ahead and snip it to size and now
here’s the cool part if you look closely
you’ll notice the hanger wire is made of
seven smaller wires twisted together so
if we unravel them we end up with seven
super thin stainless steel cutting wires
and plenty more where they came from at
this point go ahead and get the one and
a half inch extension spring ready by
connecting it to one of the eye bolts
the easiest way to connect it is by
pulling the hook open with a pair of
pliers then looping it inside the bolt
and letting go fasten one end of the
steel wire to the bottom eye bolt by
folding the wire back over itself and
twisting it around a few times now loop
the other end through the bottom of the
spring but before you twist it off pull
the wire firmly and stretch it out first
this will spring load the wire with
tension which is really important for
keeping it tight when it expands and
contracts rapidly with that final step
the wire cutter is done except you might
have noticed the wires still a bit wavy
simply take a screw or the handle of a
spoon and slide it back and forth a few
times to make the ripples disappear now
let’s do a quick and simple test to make
sure everything got connected properly
by touching the ends of
wires to the terminals of the lantern
battery if you did it right and your
connections are solid the wire will heat
up and sliced through styrofoam without
any trouble at all okay now that we’ve
got a wire cutting blade let’s go ahead
and build the foam cutting factory I
designed to go with it the first thing
you’re going to need is half-inch
medium-density fiberboard cut 18 inches
square we’ll also need an 8-foot 2×4
which you can get for about $2 I’m using
a chop saw to make quick and clean cuts
but you can use whatever tools work best
for you but in any case you’ll need to
cut the first piece eighteen inches long
then a 15 inch piece for the side
another 15 inch piece for the bottom
followed by an 11 and a half inch piece
for the other side a 5 inch block fills
the gap above that followed by a three
and a half inch block on the bottom left
then another three and a half inch block
that’ll go inside on the bottom ride a
little later on
now that our 2×4 is cut mark a 10 inch
line down the center of the MDF square
use something like a chop saw to follow
the line from the center of the marking
right out the side you’ll see what this
groove is for a little later on alright
it’s time to secure the blocks together
and for that I’m using 8 three-inch wood
screws in an eighth inch drill bit start
by lining all the blocks in position on
the bottom of the board then use the 8
inch bit to drill pilot holes in the
wood this way the wood won’t crack when
you screw it together the blocks go
together in three different segments and
you should be able to figure out how to
attach them by studying how I did mine
before we go any further it’s a good
idea to stop and hack a square hole out
of the 15 inch sidewall to accommodate
the dimmer switch we’ll be adding in
just a minute
I used a 3/8 inch bit to drill holes in
the corners then connect the dots with a
jig saw to cut the sides and pop the
block out if you did it right your hole
will be on the left side of the base
when the 18 inch board is facing forward
okay let’s move on to securing the work
surface next we’ll need to drill pilot
holes through the MDF like we did for
the base frame and it’s a good idea to
invest in a countersink bit so you can
get the heads of the screws to drop
below the surface I use 10 1 and 1/2
inch wood screws to hold the board to
the two-by-fours and 2/3 inch wood
screws in the upper right area to secure
the three and a half inch reinforcing
block to the underside of the table
these are the measurements I used and
it’s important you take time to measure
in fasteners the same way because it’s
all part of a master plan that’ll come
too
later on now just for fun I thought it
would be a good idea to use my
flush-mount router station to quickly
clean up the edges a bit by rounding
them out for just a little extra effort
you can see what an amazing difference
it makes and all I used was a half inch
rounding bit if you want to see how I
made this router station look for how to
build it in another project video
alright let’s make sure all the wood
pieces fit together snugly on the
underside then double check the base
support assembly didn’t get screwed on
that’s important we still have one thing
left to do with the base of board and
that’s to drill a 3/8 inch hole directly
in the center and 5 inches from the
bottom now just for looks I decided to
spray-paint mine black so it would match
my wire saw better but however you color
yours is completely up to you the next
step in assembling our foam cutting
Factory is attaching the arm assembly to
the support base stand the saw upright
so it looks like the letter C and Center
it in the middle of the board now if you
push a pen through the hole in the back
and Mark the tubing you can use your 3/8
inch drill bit to carefully cut a
matching hole right through the tube
make sure you don’t cut the wires inside
and put something like a scrap piece of
wood underneath so you don’t scratch up
your table when the drill finally
punches through let’s fasten the two
parts together next using a 3/8 inch by
three and a half inch hex bolt two 5/16
inch cut washers a 3/8 inch wing nut and
two 5/16 inch tank bolt washers which
you’ll find in the plumbing section the
Bolton one washer go on the forward side
of the tubing while the two tank washers
go on the back and after inserting the
bolt all the way through the hole in the
support stand add one more washer and a
wingnut to clamp the system together
doing that simply needs to be screwed on
hand tight with that final addition
you’ve just completed a standalone
cutting assembly that looks awesome and
has a lot of really cool features the
cutting arm is designed to pivot on the
bolts you can adjust the angle of the
blade any way you need it if that’s not
enough you can release the wing nut and
slide the whole assembly out to cut
larger blocks free handed now to bring
our styro-slicer’ to life we just need a
way to safely electrify it and control
the power so let’s finish up with the
electrical system next I went to the
hardware store and got a 600 watt dimmer
switch that you can turn on or off just
by pushing in we’re also going to need a
12 volt power transformer a 10
fuse and another six foot length of cord
now if you have trouble finding a
transformer or simply don’t want to
shell out for one you’ll probably be
able to salvage one for free by hacking
open an old stereo and pulling one off
the power supply that’s what I did for
my first prototype and it works just as
well the dimmer switch goes in position
from the outside and gets secured into
place with two one inch wood screws
you’ll need a cover plate as well to
make it look nice and what that screwed
on replace the knob then flip the whole
workstation over I decided to install my
transformer about halfway down the side
and use two more one inch screws to
secure it as tightly against the top as
I could get it and it helps if you
position the side with the three wires
facing down the 10 out fuse isn’t really
necessary but it’s good practice to have
in place just in case of a short so make
sure it’s actually got a fuse inside
then go ahead and connect everything
together using the small wire nuts that
came with the dimmer switch now to save
time I went ahead and just wired
everything together and after you do the
same it should look something like this
you can see the main power cord comes in
from the outlet and connects to the 10
amp fuse first which then connects to
the black wire on the dimmer switch next
the red wire coming out of the dimmer
switch connects to the black cord on the
primary side of the transformer and the
other black cord connects to the wire
running back to the outlet now on the
secondary side of the transformer you
might have noticed two yellow wires and
one black one the two yellow wires
supply 12 volts and the black wires
Center tap for half power
this means that connecting them to a
three-position switch will give us the
option to cycle the system between zero
volts six volts and 12 volts on demand
now it doesn’t really matter which
yellow wire you connect to the switch as
long as it’s soldered to one side with
the black wire soldered to the other the
remaining yellow wire needs to be
connected to the cord running to the hot
wire assembly and the return wire
connects back to the middle of the three
position switch it sounds complicated
but it’s really not that bad once you
get into it now the two power cords are
designed to feed out the back so they
don’t get in the way one cord is for the
supply power that gets plugged into any
regular outlet and the other cord runs
the regulated power to the cutter
assembly at this point the styro-slicer’
is done and ready to use as soon as you
are simply push the cutting arm into
place with the wire in the center of the
work surface then flip the red switch to
the six bolt setting which I call normal
power push the dimmer switch on then
gently crank up the
power and you’re in business if
everything is working the way it should
your wire will instantly heat up and you
can start slicing through styrofoam
right away making some of the smoothest
and cleanest cuts you can imagine for
one final touch I added a couple 1 inch
screws to the inside of the base so we
can store the rest of the hanger wire
and secure to latch on the upper side of
the support stand so the whole system
locks together for quick and easy
storage by the way there’s also a backup
battery cable in there that’ll connect
the system to solar or battery power
which makes the whole system portable
and off the grid well now you know how
to rise up and become a master styrofoam
maker by building yourself a homemade
styro-slicer’ it gives you precision
control for cutting custom props like a
mini master sword or slicing out
something more intricate like a squadron
of 3d fighter jets look for how to make
these in another video well that’s it
for now if you like this project perhaps
you’ll like some of my others check them
out at the king of random calm hey guys
thanks for watching to the end
I love the styro-slicer’ and if you
build one yourself I’m confident you’re
gonna love yours as well this project
was sponsored by audible.com which is an
Amazon company sporting the world’s
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audible promotes learning and
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the king of random and please make sure
you use audible.com/anna me cuz it lets
them know you came from my video and
that helps a lot thanks again for
supporting and sharing my projects and
I’ll see you in the next project video
talk to you then
[Music]
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